Milady Chapter 16

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Head Form

Also known as head shape; shape of the head, which greatly affects the way the hair falls and behaves

Reference points on the head

Ear, jawline, occipital bone or apex

Head shape and reference points will help

-balance within the design
-develope the ability to create the same haircut consistently

Parietal Ridge

where the comb leaves the head

Occipital Bone

the bone that protrudes at the base of the skull

Apex

The highest point on the top of the head

Top

the hair that grows above the parietal ridge

Front

everything that falls in front of the ear and is considered the front

Sides

incude all te hair from the the back of the ear forward and below thhe parietal ridge

Crown

the area between the apex and the back of the parietal ridge

Nape

the area at the back part of the neck and consists of the hair below the occipital bone

Back

is all the hair that is from the apex to the back of the ear

Bang

As so known as the fringe area, which is the section that begins at the apex and ends at the front corners

Hairline

Hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along the face, around the ears, and on the neck

Growth Pattern

direction in which the hair grows from the scalp; also referred to as natural fall or natural falling position

A __________ is a thin continuous mark used as a guide

line

An ________ is the space between 2 lines of surfaces that intersect at a given point

angle

Horizontal Line

lines that are parallel to the horizon or the floor

Vertical Line

lines that are up and down and are perpendicular to the floor

Diagonal Lines

between horizontal and vertical and have a slant or slope

Beveling and Stacking

are techniques using diagonal lines to create angles

For control during haircutting the hair is parted into uniform working areas called ____________

sections

Each section may be divided into smaller partings called ___________

subsections

Natural Fall

The way hair falls do to gravity.

Elevation

Any projection or lifting of the hair

Cutting Line

is the angle at which the fingers are held when cutting the line that creats the end shape

Guideline

is a section of the hair that determines the length the hair will be cut

Stationary Guideline

is a guide that does not move.

Traveling Guide

Movable guide

______________ occurs when you comb the hair away from its natural falling postion

Overdirection

A great haircut always begins with what?

Great Consultation

When deciding on a cut, what are we looking at in the consultation?

Face Shape
Growth Patterns
Texture
Density
Elasticity
Hairline

What tools are needs when doing a hair cut?

Haircutting shears
Texturizing shears
Razor
Clippers
Trimmers
Sectioning Clips
Wide tooth comb
Tail comb
Barber comb
Styling or cutting comb
Fading comb

Shears are made of ___________

steel

Cast

method of manufacturing shears; a metal-forming process whereby molten steel is pured into a mold and once the metal is cooled, takes on the shape of the mold

Forged

process of working metal to a finished shape by hammering or processing (more durable)

Bacis Hair Cuts

Blunt haircut
Graduated Haircut
Uniform Layered Haircut
Long Layered Haircut

Blunt

has a weight line, zero degree projection and a stationary guide

Graduated Haircut

graduated shape or wedge; an effect or haircut that results from cutting the hair with tension, low to medium elevation. Has weight line, most common projection 45 degrees, mobil or stationary guide

Uniform Layered Haircut

hair is elevated to 90 degrees from the scalp. Has no weight line and a mobil guideline

Long Layer Haircut

haircut in which the hair is cut at a 180-degree angle; the resulting shape has shorter layers at the top and increasingly longer layers towards the perimeter. Uses a mobil and/or stationary guidelines

Cross-Checking

parting the haircut in the opposite way from which you cut it in; in order to check for precion of line and shape

Razor Cuts

give a softer appearance than a shear cut

Texturizing

the process of removing excess bulk without shortening the lenght. Can be done with cutting shears, thining shears or a razor

Slide Cutting

method of cutting or thinning the hair in which the fingers and shears glide along the edge of the hair to remove length

Scissors-Over-Comb

haircutting technique in whih the hair is held in place with the comb while the tips of the scissors are used to remove length

Point Cutting

haircutting technique in wich the tips of the shears are used to cut points in the end of the hair

Slithering

cutting the hair with a sliding movement of the shears while keeping the blades partially opened

Slicing

hair cutting technique that removes the bulk and ads movement through the length of the hair

Carving

haircutting technique done by placing the still blade into the hair and resting it on the scalp and then moving the shears through the hair while opening and partially closing the shears

Removing bulk

thinning

Free-Hand Notching

haircutting technique in which pieces of hair are snipped out at random intervals

Taper

haircutting ffect in which there is an even blend from very short at hair line to longer lengths as you move up the head

Shrinkage

when hair contracts or lifts through the action of moistureloss

Texturizing

haircutting technique designed to remove excess bulk without shortening the length

Tension

amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a section, created by stretching or pulling the section

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