Milady's Esthetics Chapter 12 Chemistry Ingredients and Selection
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43 terms
Terms | Definitions |
|---|---|
 Cosmetic Act of 1938 | Distinguishes between drugs and cosmetics. Drugs affect function or structure, cosmetics promote attractiveness altering the appearance. |
| Functional Ingredients | Allow products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion or a cream. |
| Performance ingredients | Cause actual changes in the appearance of the skin. |
| Cosmeceuticals | Strong performance ingredients intended to improve the skin's health and appearance. |
| Anhydrous | No water. |
| Emollients | Fatty materials-plant or animal derived-vehicle or performance ingredient |
| Lubricants | Coat the skin and reduce friction |
| Fatty Acids | derived from plant oils or animal fats |
| fatty alcohols | fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen |
| fatty esters | produced from fatty acids and fatty alcohols |
| silicones | oils chemically combined with silicone and oxygen, leave a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin. |
| Comedogenicity | the tendency of any topical substance to cause or worsen a buildup of dead cells in the follicle. |
| Surfactants | Reduce the surface tension between the skin and the product. |
| Detergents | Primarily a surfactant used to cleanse, form an emulsion to lift dirt and oil from the skin. |
| Emulsifiers | surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion |
| Oil soluble/water soluble | mixable substances |
| Gellants | Give products gel like consistency |
| Carbomers | Thicken creams |
| Aromatherapy | Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils |
| Preservatives | Prevent bacteria and other microorganisms from living in a product. |
| Chelating Agents | Chemical added to cosmetics to improve the efficiency of a preservative. |
| Antioxidants | substances that inhibit oxidation reactions. |
| Certified colors | Synthetic, inorganic, metal salts. |
| Colorants | substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color. |
| Noncertified Colors | Organic, plant extracts, natural pigments |
| Ph Adjuster | acids or alkalies |
| Solvents | Dissolve other ingredients |
| Botanicals | ingredients derived from plants |
| Healing agents | chamomile, licorice, azulene, and aloe, that heal the skin. |
| Hydrators(humectants) | attract water to the skin's surface |
| Lipids | Used to improve hydration, plumpness, and smoothness of skin. |
| Exfoliation | Removal of dead corneum cells |
| Alpha Hydroxy Acids of Beta Hydroxy Acids | Work by loosening the bond between cells in the surface of the corneum |
| Enzyems | Dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin. Maintain the hydration level of the epidermis |
| Delivery Systems | Deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis |
| Vehicles | Spreading agents and carrying bases nescessary for the formulation of a cosmetic. |
| Liposomes | Closed lipid bilaryer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, targeted delivery, controled release |
| Polymers | Chemical compounds formed by a number of small molecules |
| Antioxidants | Neutralize free radicals before they can attach themselves to the cell membrane and destroy the cell |
| Polyglucans | Help strengthen the immune system and stimulate the metabolism |
| Tissue Repair Factor (TRF) | Functions as anti inflammatory and moisturizing agent. |
| Peptides | Chains of amino acids used in skin care products to produce changes in the skin's appearance. |
| Peptides | Chains of amino acids used in skin care products to produce changes in the skins appearance |
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