Milady Cosmetology Chapter 18
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Created by:
sarahporchas on April 25, 2012
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32 terms
Terms | Definitions |
|---|---|
| Chemical texture services | Permanent waving (adding curl or wave), relaxing (removing curl), curl re-forming (loosening overly curly hair) |
| Cuticle | Tough exterior layer of hair, chemicals must penetrate through |
| Cortex | The middle layer of the hair, responsible for hair elasticity and strength, as well as changes in wave |
| Medulla | Innermost core of the hair, also called ptih |
| Chemical texturizers | Raise the oh of hair to an alkaline state in order to soften and swell the hair shaft |
| Coarse resistant hair requires.... | Highly alkaline solution |
| Keratin proteins | Long chains linked together end to end like beads with bonds called peptide bonds into polypeptide chains |
| Side bonds | Cross links in polypeptide bonds comprised of disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds. |
| Disulfide bond | Chemical bonds that join sulfur bonds and can only be broken by chemicals |
| Salt bonds | Weak side bonds bonds that are the result of attraction between negative and positive electrical charges. Easily broken by water. |
| Hydrogen bonds | Weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges. Easily broken by water or heat styling |
| Metallic salts | In some hairColoring products. A client that has used them should not receive perm services |
| Client release form | Good when a client wants a questionable service |
| Scalp analysis | Must be performed prior to any service |
| Hair texture | The diameter of a single strand of hair. Coarse, medium, or fine |
| Hair density | The number of hairs per square inch, thin, medium, or thick |
| Hair porosity | The ability of the hair to absorb moisture. Resistant, normal, or porous |
| Hair elasticity | The ability of the hair to stretch. More than anything determines the ability of the hair to hold curl |
| Perm rods | Size deter ines the size of the curl, placement and wrapping method determine the type of and shape of curl |
| Perm wraps are created by | Sectioning the hair into panels, and dividing them into base sections |
| On base placement in perms can cause | Stress and breakage |
| Croquignole perms | Wrapped from the ends of hair to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers |
| Spiral perms | The hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod |
| Reduction reaction | Permanent waving reaction due to the addition of hydrogen |
| Ammonium thioglycolate | The addition of ammonia to create an alkaline reaction, better for coarse hair |
| Glyceryl monothioglycolate | Acid balanced with a low ph, better for fine hair |
| Acid wave perms require... | Solution, activator and neutralizer |
| Thio neutralization | Stops the the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into it's new curly action |
| Basic perm wrap | Straight set wrap |
| Curvature perm wrap | The movement curves within sectioned out panels |
| Brick lay perm wrap | Similar to actual bricklaying with offsets row to row |
| Double rod technique | Piggyback wrap |
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