Milady Chapter 18 Chemical Texture Services
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125 terms
Terms | Definitions |
|---|---|
 acid-balanced waves | Not true acid waves, as they have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 and use glyceryl monthioglycolate (GMTG) as the primary reducing agent. Acid-balanced waves process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves. |
| alkaline waves (or cold waves) | Have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature. |
| amino acids | Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen and nitrogen. |
| ammonia-free waves (ATG) | Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents. |
| base cream or protective base cream | Oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing. |
| base control | Position of the rod in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. |
| base direction | Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped. |
| base placement | The position of the rod in relation to its base section, and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped. Rods can be wrapped on base, half off base or off base. |
| base relaxers | Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer. |
| base sections | Subsections of panels into which hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section. |
| basic perm wrap | Perm wrap in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size bases; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod. |
| bookend wrap | Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope. |
| bricklay perm wrap | perm wrap similar to the actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row. |
| chemical hair relaxing | Rearanges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form. |
| chemical texture services | Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair. |
| concave rods | perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends. |
| cortex | Middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. The cortex is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair. |
| croquignole perms | Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers. |
| curvature perm wrap | Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head. |
| disulfide bonds | Chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. Can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water. |
| double flat wrap | perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under , and is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped. |
| double rod technique (piggyback) | perm wrap in which two rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other. |
| endothermic waves | perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer. |
| end papers or end wraps | Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods. |
| exothermic waves | Creates and exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing. |
| glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) | Main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions. |
| half off-base placement | Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees (perpendicular) to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section. |
| hydrogen bonds | Weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat, as in thermal styling and re-form as the hair dries or cools. |
| hydroxide neutralization | The neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is an acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp. Hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds. |
| hydroxide relaxers | Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13. The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers. And can swell the hair up to twice its normal diameter. |
| lanthionization | process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; breaks the hair's disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair. |
| loop or circle rod | Tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod. |
| low-pH waves | Perms that work at a low pH, and use sulfates, sulfites and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate. |
| medulla | Innermost layer of the hair and is often called the pith or core of the hair. |
| metal hydroxide relaxers | Ionic compounds formed by a metal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen. |
| no-base relaxers | Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream. |
| normalizing lotions | Conditioners that restore the hair's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing. |
| off-base placement | Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle below the perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely off its base section. |
| on-base placement | Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond the perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned on its base section. |
| peptide bonds or end bonds | Chemical bonds that join amino acids together form polypeptide chains. |
| polypeptide chains | Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds. |
| salt bonds | relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by changes in pH, as in permanent waving, and re-form when the pH returns to normal. |
| side bonds | Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair. |
| single flat wrap | Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped. |
| soft bender rods | Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. These soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape. |
| soft curl permanent | Combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods to make existing curl larger and looser. |
| spiral perm wrap | Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, similar to the grip on a tennis racket. |
| straight rods | Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area. |
| thioglycolic acid | Colorless liquid with a strong unpleasant odor; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions. |
| thio neutralization | Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form. |
| thio relaxers | Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10). |
| thio-free waves | Perm that uses cysteamine or mercaptamine instead of ammonium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent. |
| true acid waves | Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, require heat to process (endothermic), process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves. |
| weave technique | Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas. |
| Chemical texture services include the following: | Permanent waving, relaxing and curl re-forming (soft curl permanents) |
| permanent waving is | adding wave or curl to the hair. |
| relaxing is | removing curl, leaving it smooth and wave-free |
| curl re-forming (soft curl permanents) is | loosening overly curly hair, such as turning tight curls into loose curls or waves. |
| The medulla does not play a role in chemical texture services and | may be missing in fine hair. |
| Although the cuticle is not directly involved in the texture or movement of the hair, texture chemicals must penetrate through the cuticle | to their target in the cortex in order to be effective. |
| The term pH literally means | potential of hydrogen. |
| The symbol pH represents | the quantity of hydrogen ions. |
| The pH scale measures the | acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains. |
| The pH scale has a range from | 0 to 14. |
| A pH of 7 | is neutral |
| a pH below 7 | is acidic |
| A pH above 7 | is alkaline |
| The natural pH of hair is | between 4.5 and 5.5 |
| Chemical texturizers raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state | in order to soften and swell the hair shaft.This action lifts the cuticle layer and allows the solution to reach the cortex layer where restructuring takes place. |
| keratin proteins are made of | long chains of amino acids linked together end to end like beads. |
| keratin proteins | are long, coiled polypeptide chains. |
| Metallic salts | leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration or hair breakage. |
| Some home haircoloring products contain metallic salts that | are not compatible with permanent waving. |
| A scalp analysis should be performed | prior to any chemical service. |
| Look for cuts, scratches, open sores, redness, or flaking. Do not proceed with the service if there are any | skin abrasions or signs of scalp disease. Refer the client to a physician. |
| A complete hair analysis will help you determine | how the hair will react to the service and will help avoid most problems. |
| The five most important factors to consider in a hair analysis follow: | texture density porosity elasticity growth direction |
| texture | diameter of a single hair strand |
| density | thickness or number of hairs per square inch on the head |
| porosity | the ability of the hair to absorb moisture |
| elasticity | how far the hair stretches before breaking, ad how well it returns to its original shape when stretched |
| growth direction | how the hair naturally lays (forward, circular, and so on) |
| The 3 types of hair textures have the following characteristics when undergoing a chemical texture service: | Coarse Hair Medium Hair Fine Hair |
| Coarse Hair | usually requires more processing than medium or fine hair, and is usually more resistant to that processing and requires a thorough and careful chemical application to ensure success. |
| Medium hair | is the most common hair texture. It is considered normal, and does not pose any special problems or concerns. |
| Fine hair | is more fragile and easier to process and more susceptible to damage from chemical services than coarse to medium hair. Treat the hair gently during the chemical process is essential for healthy, beautiful results. |
| Hair porosity is classified as | resistant, normal, or porous. |
| overly porous hair | has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs moisture/chemicals. |
| Resistant hair | has a tight, compact cuticle layer that resists penetration. Chemical services performed requires a more alkaline texturizer than porous hair. |
| Wet hair with normal elasticity can stretch | up to 50 percent of its original length and then return to that same length without breaking. |
| Wet hair with low elasticity does not | return to its original length when stretched. it may not be able to hold the curl from wet sets, thermal styling or permanent waves. |
| Permanent waving is a 2 step process | the 1st step is the physical change caused by wrapping the hair on the perm rods and the 2nd part involves the chemical changes caused by the permanent waving solution and neutralizer. |
| In permanent waving the size of the rod | determines the size of the curl. |
| Alkaline permanent waving solutions soften and swell the hair, | thus raising the cuticle, which permits the solution to penetrate into the cortex. |
| For extra-long hair, | a double wrap (or piggy-back wrap) may be indicated. |
| Once in the cortex, the waving solution | breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction. |
| A reduction reaction involves either | the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen. |
| In permanent waving the amount of processing | is determined by the strength of the permanent wave solution. |
| All exothermic waves have 3 components | permanent waving solution, activator and neutralizer |
| Endothermic waves will not process | properly at room temperature. |
| Sulfite permanents are usually marketed as | body waves or alternative waves. |
| The strength of any permanent wave is based on | the concentration of its reducing agent. |
| In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, | within the first 5 to 10 minutes. |
| If you find that your client's hair has been over-processed, it probably happened | in the first 5 to 10 minutes of the service. |
| If the hair has not processed after 10 minutes | it may require a re-application of waving solution. |
| Under-processed hair | usually has a very weak curl, but it may also be straight. |
| Permanent waving thio neutralization | stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its curly form. |
| Neutralization performs to important functions | 1) Any waving solution that remains in the hair is deactivated. 2) Disulfide bonds that were broken by the waving solution are rebuilt. |
| To avoid scalp irritation and unwanted lightening of hair color | always rinse perm solution from hair for atleast 5 minutes and then blot with towels to remove as much moisture as possible. |
| preliminary test curls | help you determine how your client's hair will react to a perm. |
| In extremely curly hair | the thinnest and weakest sections of the hair strands are located at the twists. |
| Types of hydroxide relaxers are | sodium, potassium, lithium and guanidine. |
| Hydroxide relaxers are not compatible with | thio relaxers, permanent waving or soft curl perms because they use a different chemistry. |
| The disulfide bonds that are broken by hydroxide relaxers | are broken permanently and can never be reformed. |
| Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called | lye relaxers. |
| Guanidine hydroxide relaxers are usually advertised and sold as | no-lye relaxers. |
| All metal hydroxide relaxers contain only one component, and are used exactly as they are packaged in | the container without mixing. |
| Lithium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide relaxers are often advertised and sold as | no-mix no-lye relaxers. |
| Most chemical relaxers have 3 strengths: | mild, regular and super. |
| The difference in strength of hydroxide relaxers | parallels the concentration of hydroxide. |
| The application for a retouch relaxer starts | 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from the scalp and includes only the new growth. Do not apply to the hair closest to the scalp until the last few minutes. |
| A virgin relaxer should start | 1/4 to 1/2 away from the scalp and includes the entire strand up to the porous ends. Do not apply to hair closest to the scalp until the last few minutes to avoid scalp irritation and over processing. |
| A virgin relaxer application | is for hair that has not had previous chemical texture service. |
| A retouch application | is for hair that has had previous chemical texture services. |
| A periodic strand test during processing | will help to tell you when the hair is sufficiently relaxed. |
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