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Physical Oceanography (Currents, Waves, & Tides) Test

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5 Written Questions

5 Matching Questions

  1. Fetch
  2. High Tides
  3. Low Tides
  4. Capillary waves
  5. Gravity
  1. a These waves have a wavelength greater than 1.73cm. The restoring force is gravity and momentum. Wind waves are one example of these waves.
  2. b Low water position corresponding to a tidal trough
  3. c High water position corresponding to a tidal crest
  4. d The slowest moving waves.
  5. e Uninterupted distance over which the wind blows without significant change in direction.

5 Multiple Choice Questions

  1. Waves transmit _______________.
  2. Due to the warmth of the water, the molecules are slightly expanded in this region.
  3. Water rushing out of an enclosed harbor or bay because of the fall in sea level as a tide trough approaches.
  4. Greek astronomer and navigator who first wrote about the connection between moon and the height of the tide.
  5. A "no-tide" point in an ocean caused by basin resonances, friction, and other factors around which tide crests rotate. About a dozen amphidromic points exist in the world ocean. Sometimes called a node.

5 True/False Questions

  1. OrbitNearly friction free transfer of energy from molecule to molecule in a circular path.


  2. WindSurface currents are powered by the sun and ______________


  3. Surface CurrentsThese transfer heat from tropical to polar regions, distribute nutrients, scatter organisms and influence weather and climate.


  4. TransitionalThese waves travel though water deeper than 1/20 but shallower than 1/2 their wavelength


  5. TidesThese waves move through water greater than 1/2 their wavelength.


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