1.
Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods: End wraps
2.
Additional processing time allows: Polypeptide chains to shift into their new configuration
3.
Adjust any rods that have become _____ prior to applying the neutralizer: Loose
4.
Alkaline permanent waving solution: Softens and swells the hair, raising the cuticle, permitting solution to penetrate cortex
5.
Alkaline waves were developed in _____ and relied on the same ATG that is still used today: 1941
6.
Amino acids: compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen
7.
Ammonia + Thioglycolic acid =: Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), the active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents
8.
Ammonia is added to the thiglycolic acid because: Acids do not swell the hair or penetrate the cortex
9.
Ammonia-free waves: Use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia; low odor with use
10.
An indication of the strength of the side bonds that hold the individual fibers of the hair in place: Elasticity
11.
Before proceeding with any service, you must first determine...: a. Exactly what the client expects
b. What is possible
12.
Benefit for wrapping long hair in a piggyback wrap: Better solution penetration and tighter curl near scalp
13.
Bookend wrap: 1 end paper, folded in half over hair
14.
Chemical texture services include...: a. Permanent waving
b. Relaxing
c. curl re-forming
15.
Chemical texture services...: .... permanently alter the natural wave pattern of the hair
16.
Client records should include a complete evaluation of...: Hair length
Hair texture
Hair color
Hair condition
17.
Client release forms DO NOT: Release the school or salon from all responsibility for any damages that may occur.
18.
Components of exothermic waves: Solution, activator, and neutralizer
19.
Concave rods produce what type of curl?: Tighter curl in the center and a looser curl on either side of the strand.
20.
Cortex: The middle layer of the hair; responsible for the strength and elasticity of the hair.
21.
Course hair: usually more resistant to processing
22.
Course hair naturally looks: Thicker and fuller
23.
Cuticle: Tough exterior layer of the hair; surrounds the inner layers and protects the hair from damage.
24.
Density: The thickness or number of hairs per square inch
25.
Density: Measures the number of hairs per square inch on the head to determine whether a client has fine, medium or thick hair.
26.
Determine the size, shape and direction of panels by: Wrapping pattern and the type and size of the rod
27.
Determines the strength of the permanent waving solution: Concentration of thio
28.
Disulfide bonds: Chemical side bonds that are formed when two sulfur type chains are joined together
29.
Double flat wrap: Use two end papers. Place one under and one over the strand of hair being wrapped. Both papers extend past the hair ends.
30.
Double tool or piggyback wrap: Two rods used, one on top of the other. One starts midway down the hair shaft and the other starts at the end, both on the same strand of hair. This is good to use on long hair.
31.
During a scalp analysis, look for...: Cuts, scratches, open sores, redness or flaking
32.
Each panel is divided into subsections called: Base sections
33.
Elasticity: How far the hair stretches before breaking and how well it returns to its original shape
34.
Elasticity is usually classified as: Normal to low
35.
Elasticity of the hair determines its ability to: Hold curl
36.
Endothermic waves: Activated by an outside heat source like a conventional hood type dryer
37.
Equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area: Straight rods
38.
Especially at an alkaline pH: Oxidative reactions can lighten hair color
39.
Exothermic waves: Create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing
40.
Extend end papers beyond the ends of the hair: How do you avoid "fishhooks"
41.
Fine hair: More fragile; easier to process
42.
Five most important factors to consider in a hair analysis:: 1. Texture
2. Density
3. Porosity
4. Elasticity
5. Growth direction
43.
Glyceryl monothioglycolate: An acid with a low pH and is the primary reducing agent in all modern acid waves
44.
Growth direction: How the hair naturally lays
45.
Hair is insufficiently blotted: Neutralizer effect is reduced
46.
Hair strand is wound around the rod, going from the ends to the scalp: Croquignole
47.
Hair that requires a highly alkaline chemical solution is...: Coarse, resistant hair
48.
Half off base placement: Hair is wrapped at a 90 degree angle or straight out from the center of the section; minimizes stress and tension on the hair
49.
Has a raised cuticle layer that easily absorbs: Overly porous
50.
Has a tight, compact cuticle that resist penetration: Resistant hair
51.
If there are minor skin abrasions or scalp disease...: DO NOT PROCEED with the chemical texture services
52.
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution: Penetrates the hair - within the first 5 to 10 minutes
53.
In permanent waving, the size of the rod determines: The size of the curl
54.
Keratin: Long, coiled polypeptide chains
55.
Low pH waves: Use of sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites presenting an alternative to ATG
56.
Medium hair: Most common hair texture; does not pose any problems or concerns
57.
Medula: Often called the pith or core of the hair and does not play a role in structuring or restructuring the hair.
58.
Metallic Salt Test: Mix 1 oz of 20v peroxide with 20 drops of 20% ammonia. Immerse 20+ strands of hair n the solution for 30 minutes. Slight lightening = no metallic salts. Rapid lightening and foul smell = metallic salts
59.
Metallic salts: are not compatible with permanent waving.
60.
Metallic salts leave a coating on the hair that may cause what three things?: 1. Uneven curls
2. Severe discoloration
3. Hair breakage
61.
Mixing an oxidizer with the permanent waving solution will: Cause a rapid release of heat and an increase in the solutions temperature
62.
Most acid waves today have a pH between: 7.8 and 8.2
63.
Most common neutralizer: Hydrogen peroxide
64.
Natural pH of hair: 4.5 - 5.5
65.
Neither resistant nor overly porous: Normal porosity
66.
Neutralizer: Rebuilds disulfide bonds by removing the extra hydrogen atoms.
67.
Off base placement: Hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle below the center of the base section; creates the least amount of volume and results in a curl pattern that begins farthest away from the scalp.
68.
On base placement: Hair is wrapped 45 degree beyond perpendicular to its base section
69.
Once the solution is in the cortex: Solution breaks down the disulfide bonds through a reduction reaction
70.
Over processed hair: Hair is curly at the scalp and straight at the ends
71.
Over processing usually occurs when?: Within the first 5-10 minutes of the service
72.
Peptide bonds: End bonds; link amino acids together in long chains
73.
Perm solution: Breaks disulfide bonds by adding hydrogen atoms to the sulfur atoms.
74.
pH means...: Potential of hydrogen
75.
pH of most alkaline waves: 9.0 - 9.6
76.
pH scale measures...: The acidity and alkalinity of a substance
77.
Polypeptide chains: Formed by peptide bonds that are linked together
78.
Porosity: The hair's ability to absorb moisture
79.
Process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.: Acid-balanced waves
80.
Produces a uniform curl from scalp to ends: Spiral
81.
Purpose of client release forms:: Indicate that that the client knew before the chemical service that there's a possibility of damage to the hair or unexpected adverse reaction.
82.
Reducing agent used in permanent waving solutions: Thio
83.
Reduction reaction: Either the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen
84.
Reduction reaction in permanent waving: Hydrogen is added
85.
Resistant hair may not...: Become fully saturated with just one application of waving solution
86.
Rinse perm solution: For at least 5 minutes
87.
Rods placed horizontally, vertically or diagonally: Base direction
88.
Salt bonds: Weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges
89.
Side bonds: Crosslinked polypeptide chains
90.
Single flat wrap: 1 end paper placed over top of hair being wrapped
91.
Step one of a perm: Section hair into panels
92.
Straight rods produce what type of curl?: Uniform curl along the entire width of the strand
93.
Strength of any permanent wave is based on the concentration of its: Reducing agent
94.
Texture: The diameter of a hair strand
95.
Texture services can be used to add...: Add CURL to straight hair, STRAIGHTEN overly curly hair, or SOFTEN coarse hair.
96.
Texturizers change the hair's natural curl pattern by...: Raising the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to soften and swell the hair shaft. This action lifts the cuticle and allows the solution to reach the cortex and restructure the hair.
97.
The amount of processing during a permanent wave is determined by the: Strength of the permanent waving solution
98.
The cuticle is not: Directly involved in the texture or movement of the hair.
99.
The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the: Cuticle
100.
The individual growth direction of the hair causes _____, ______, and ______ that influence the finished hairstyle and must be considered when selecting the base direction and wrapping pattern for each permanent wave: Hair streams, whorls and cowlicks
101.
The most common type of perm rod; have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger circumference on the ends: Concave rods
102.
The position of the rod in relation to its base section, and it is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped: Base placement
103.
Thio neutralization: The process of stopping the action of a permanent waving solution; rebuilds hair into its new form
104.
Thio-free waves: Use an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent
105.
Thioglycolic acid: Most common reducing agent
106.
Three separate components of all acid waves: Solution
Activator
Neutralizer
107.
To cause the lease amount of stress to the hair: Wrap in the natural direction of hair growth
108.
Towel blot hair after rinsing: Gently
109.
True acid waves: Require heat to speed up processing
110.
True acid waves have a pH between: 4.5 and 7.0
111.
True acid waves were introduced: 1970s
112.
Two important functions of neutralization: Deactivation of any solution left in the hair
Rebuild disulfide bonds
113.
Two methods of wrapping the hair around the perm rod: Croquignole and spiral
114.
Two steps of the permanent waving process: 1. Physical change caused by wrapping
2. Chemical change caused by perm solution and neutralizer
115.
Under processed hair: Hair is straight at the scalp and curly at the ends
116.
Usually about 12" long with a uniform diameter along the entire length and a stiff wire that allows them to bend into almost any shape: Soft bender rods
117.
Usually about 12" long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod: Loop or circle rod
118.
Wet hair with normal elasticity can stretch up to what percentage of its original length, then return to the same length without breaking?: 50%
119.
When rinsing the hair: Use a gentle stream of warm water
