1.
Constructive interference: additive interference that results in waves larger than the original wave
2.
Definition of a Wave: A disturbing force causes the movement of energy through some medium
3.
Depth of Orbital Motions: extends to a depth of half of the wavelength
4.
Destructive interference: two waves cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave
5.
Dispersion: waves with longer wavelengths move faster; leave behind slower waves: dispersion.
6.
Frequency: number of wave crests passing a fixed point each second
7.
Long Shore Currents: As the wave nearest the beach starts to slow down, the wave crest line starts to bend or refract. Waves still typically arrive at an angle creating longshore currents.
8.
Ocean waves are orbital waves: Particles travel in an orbital fashion as the wave passes. The water does not necessarily experience much horizontal movement.
9.
Period: time between one wave crest and the next
10.
Tsunami: Long wavelength shock waves generated by sudden changes in sea floor level in coastal areas.
1 m high in deep ocean with wavelengths of 100's of km
11.
Wave breaks: When L/2, wave motion starts to become eliptical.
The wave crests peak because the wave's energy is packed into less water depth, wave heights increase.
Wave slows.
Wave height increases and becomes unstable and topples or breaks
12.
Wave Interference: When two waves meet, they interfere with one another
13.
Wave reflection: Waves can bounce off obstacles, angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection
14.
Wave refraction: waves bend as they change speed. waves slow down as they feel the bottom.
15.
Wave Trains: Progressing groups of waves with the same origin and wavelength
16.
Wavelength: distance between crests
17.
Wind generated waves: Depends on wind strength, duration and fetch
