Definition of a Wave
A disturbing force causes the movement of energy through some medium
Ocean waves are orbital waves
Particles travel in an orbital fashion as the wave passes. The water does not necessarily experience much horizontal movement.
number of wave crests passing a fixed point each second
time between one wave crest and the next
distance between crests
Depth of Orbital Motions
extends to a depth of half of the wavelength
waves with longer wavelengths move faster; leave behind slower waves: dispersion.
Progressing groups of waves with the same origin and wavelength
Wind generated waves
Depends on wind strength, duration and fetch
When two waves meet, they interfere with one another
two waves cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave
additive interference that results in waves larger than the original wave
Waves can bounce off obstacles, angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection
waves bend as they change speed. waves slow down as they feel the bottom.
Long Shore Currents
As the wave nearest the beach starts to slow down, the wave crest line starts to bend or refract. Waves still typically arrive at an angle creating longshore currents.
When L/2, wave motion starts to become eliptical.
The wave crests peak because the wave's energy is packed into less water depth, wave heights increase.
Wave height increases and becomes unstable and topples or breaks
Long wavelength shock waves generated by sudden changes in sea floor level in coastal areas.
1 m high in deep ocean with wavelengths of 100's of km