The movement of energy through a body of water
the lowest part of a wave.
a stone or concrete wall built out from a beach to reduce erosion.
the effect on earth's rotation on the direction of winds and currents
the highest part of a wave
long shore drift
the movement of sand along a beach; caused by waves coming into shore at an angle.
a giant wave caused by an earthquake on the ocean floor.
an upward flow of cold water from the ocean depths.
the horizontal distance between two wave crests.
a ridge of sand deposited by waves as they slow down near the shore
the total amount of dissolved salts in a water sample
abnormal climate event the occurs every two to seven years in the Pacific Ocean, causing changes in winds and weather patterns
the number of waves that pass a specific point in a given amount of time.
a rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow openning
large stream of moving water that flows though the ocean.
how does a wave change when it enters shallow water near shore?
near shore, the wave height increases & the wavelength decreases
when does long shore drift occur?
it occurs at the shore
how do waves change a beach?
waves shape a beach by eroding the shore in some places and building it up in others.
what are three ways to prevent beach erosion?
Groins, dunes and barrier beaches.
the water column
surface- Depth, Surface to 200 meters, temp: 17.5 Celsius
Transition- Depth: 200-1 kilometer, Temp: 10-4 Celsius
deep- Depth: 1km-ocean floor, Temp: 3.5 Celsius