chapter 4 science test
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20 terms
Terms | Definitions |
|---|---|
 wave | The movement of energy through a body of water |
| through | the lowest part of a wave. |
| groin | a stone or concrete wall built out from a beach to reduce erosion. |
| Coriolis Effect | the effect on earth's rotation on the direction of winds and currents |
| crest | the highest part of a wave |
| long shore drift | the movement of sand along a beach; caused by waves coming into shore at an angle. |
| tsunami | a giant wave caused by an earthquake on the ocean floor. |
| upwelling | an upward flow of cold water from the ocean depths. |
| wavelength | the horizontal distance between two wave crests. |
| sandbar | a ridge of sand deposited by waves as they slow down near the shore |
| salinity | the total amount of dissolved salts in a water sample |
| El Nino | abnormal climate event the occurs every two to seven years in the Pacific Ocean, causing changes in winds and weather patterns |
| frequency | the number of waves that pass a specific point in a given amount of time. |
| rip current | a rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow openning |
| current | large stream of moving water that flows though the ocean. |
| how does a wave change when it enters shallow water near shore? | near shore, the wave height increases & the wavelength decreases |
| when does long shore drift occur? | it occurs at the shore |
| how do waves change a beach? | waves shape a beach by eroding the shore in some places and building it up in others. |
| what are three ways to prevent beach erosion? | Groins, dunes and barrier beaches. |
| the water column | surface- Depth, Surface to 200 meters, temp: 17.5 Celsius Transition- Depth: 200-1 kilometer, Temp: 10-4 Celsius deep- Depth: 1km-ocean floor, Temp: 3.5 Celsius |
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