GeologyLECTUREtest1pt.2

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The height, length, and period of a wave depend upon

wind speed, the length of time the wind has blown, and the fetch

Which of the following is correct regarding a wave in the open ocean?

none of these

Wave begin to "feel bottom" when the depth of water is

equal to one-half the wavelength

When waves reach shallow water, they are often are bent and tend to become parallel to the shore

refraction

The movement of water within the surf zone that parallels the shore is termed

longshore current

The presence of which one of the following would indicate that the land had been uplifted or that sea level had fallen

elevated marine terrace

Which one of the following is a landform created by wave erosion

sea arch

Chesapeake Bay and Delaware Bay are

former river valleys that were flooded by a rise in sea level, excellent examples of large estuaries, associated with submergent coast
(all of the above)

The movement of sand parallel to the shore

may create sea spots, is achieved by longshore currents, is created by waves approaching at an oblique angle (all of the above)

One result of wave refraction is that wave energy is concentrated

on headlands projecting into the water

The zigzag movement of sand grains along a beach is

both A and B

A sandbar that completely crosses a bay, sealing it off from the open ocean is a

tombolo, sea stack, coastal barrier (none of these)

The ridge of sand projecting into a bay and often having a hooked end is a

spit

An isolated remnant of wave erosion is a

sea stack

A sand ridge connecting an island to the mainland or to another island is a

tombolo

A flat, bench-like surface cut in rock along a coast is a

wave-cut platform

Fetch is

non of these

Which one of the following structures is built to protect boats from large breaking waves

breakwater

Which of the following is designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion

beach nourishment, groin, seawall (all of these)

Which of the following is a tidal current

both flood and ebb tide

The energy that drives surface ocean currents such as the gulf stream comes from

prevailing winds

the poleward-moving current is

warm

Because of the Coriolis effect, surface ocean currents are deflected to the ___ of their path of motion in the Northern Hemisphere

right

Because of Corilolis effect, surface ocean currents are deflected to the ___ of their path of motion in the Southern Hemisphere

left

the daily tidal range is GREATEST during ___ tide

spring

the daily tidal range is LEAST during ___ tide

neap

fetch refers to

a large expanse of open water over which the wind blows and generates waves

How can crashing, collapsing storm waves generate explosive forces and stresses on rocky outcrops and manmade structures?

pressurized water and compressed air are driven into cracks and fissures

Erosional retreat of a ___ leads to enlargement and extension of a wave-cut platform in the inland direction

wave-cut cliff

Large estuaries are more common on a ___ coastline

submergent

A ___ is an isolated remnant of bedrock standing above a wave-cut platform

sea stack

___ is a strong, parallel alignment of different mineral bands in a metamorphic rock

foliation

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