Chapter 20
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schircha29 on October 31, 2011
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51 terms
Terms | Definitions |
|---|---|
 acid balanced waves | permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH; because of the higher pH they process at room temperature do not require the added heat of a hair dryer process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acidic waves |
| alkaline waves | (cold waves) have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6 use ammonium thioglycolate (atg) as the reducing agent and process at room temperature without the addition of heat |
| amino acids | compounds made up of carbon hydrogen oxygen and sulfur |
| ammonia free waves | perms that use an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia so there is very little odor associated with their use |
| ammonium thioglycolate | active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms |
| base control | position of the tool in relation to its base section determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped |
| base cream | (protective base cream) oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing |
| base direction | angle at which the rod is positioned on the head; also the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped |
| base placement | refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section; base placement is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped |
| base relaxers | relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer |
| base sections | subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping; one rod is normally placed on each base section |
| basic permanent wrap | (straight set wrap) perm wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal sized bases; all the base sections are horizontal and are the same length and width as the perm rod |
| bookend wrap | perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope |
| bricklay permanent wrap | perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair |
| chemical hair relaxing | a process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form |
| chemical texture services | hair services that cause a chemical change that alters the natural wave pattern of the hair |
| concave rods | perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases toa larger diameter on the ends |
| croquignole perm wrap | perms in which the hair strands are wrapped from the ends to the scalp in overlapping concentric layers |
| curvature permanent wrap | perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head |
| double flat wrap | perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped |
| double rod wrap | (piggyback wrap) a wrap technique whereby extra long hair is wrapped on one rod from the scalp to midway downt the hair shaft and another rod is used to wrap the remaining hair strand in the same direction |
| end papers | (end wraps) absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods |
| endothermic waves | perm activated by an outside heat source usually a conventional hood type hair dryer |
| exothermic waves | create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing |
| glyceryl monothioglycolate | main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving lotions |
| half off base placement | base control in whiich the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section |
| hydroxide neutralization | an acid alkali neutralization reactiont that neutralizes the alkaline residues left in the hair by a hydorxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp; hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds |
| hydroxide relaxers | very strong alkalis with a pH over 13; the hydroxide ion is the active ingrediant in all hydroxide relaxers |
| keratin proteins | long coiled plolypeptide chains |
| lanthionization | process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; they remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond |
| loop rod | (circle rod) tool that is usally about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod |
| low pH waves | perms that us sulfates sulfites and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thoglycolate; they have a low pH |
| metal hydroxide relaxers | lionic compounds formed by a metal which is combined with oxygen and hydrogen |
| no base relaxers | relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream |
| normalizing lotions | conditioners with an acidic pH that restore the hairs natural pH after a hydroxcide relaxer and prior to shampooing |
| off base placement | base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degrees below the center of teh base section so the rod is positoned completely off its base |
| on base placement | base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree anglebeyond perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned on its base |
| peptide bonds | (end bonds) chemical bonds that join amino acids together end to end in long chains to form polypeptide chains |
| permanent waving | a two step process whereby the hair undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods and then the hair undergoes a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer |
| polypeptide chains | long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds |
| single flat wrap | perm warp that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper placed over the top of teh strand of hair being wrapped |
| soft bender rods | tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length |
| soft curl permanent | combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent that is wrapped on large rods to make existing curl larger and looser |
| spiral perm wrap | hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod similar to the stripes on a candy cane |
| straight rods | perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length of curling area |
| thio neutralization | stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form |
| thio relaxers | use the same ammonium thioglycolate that is used in permanent waving but a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10) |
| thio free waves | perm that uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent such as cysteamine or mercaptamine |
| true acid waves | have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0 and require heat to process; they process more slowly than alkaline waves and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves |
| viscosity | the measurement of the thickness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows |
| weave technique | wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas |
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