| Term | Definition |
|---|
| most common elements in Earth Core | iron, nickel |
| most common elements in Earth Crust | oxygen, silicon |
| most common elements in Ocean | oxygen, hydrogen |
| most common elements in Atmosphere | nitrogen, oxygen |
| viscosity | the measure of how much fluid resists flowing or changing its shape, the more viscous the more it resists change |
| Strain and it's two types | the change in shape or size of a solid object, elastic and plastic |
| Elastic | the ability of an object to change shape but spring back |
| Plastic and it's two types | the ability to permanently change shape or deform when forced, ductile and brittle |
| Ductile | very plastic |
| Brittle | not plastic, fractures instead of bending |
| work | force x distance |
| sensible heat | heat we can feel |
| latent heat | in phase changes heat is either released or stored |
| pressure | force per unit surface area, applied perpendicular |
| stress | force per unit area, applied parallel to the surface, 1 pascal = 1 N/m^2 |
| Doubling time | number of years for population to double, only works on exponential populations |
| Propagation | energy propagates, not matter. speed of energy propagation is called group speed |
| Phase speed | wave crests and troughs travel at the phase speed |
| Group Speed | energy travels at group speed |
| Turbulence | random motions in a fluid. gusty and irregular |
| Transport | energy and matter are moved by turbulence |
| Crest | highest point in wave |
| Trough | lowest point in wave |
| Wavelength | distance for one full cycle |
| Height | vertical distance from crest to trough |
| Amplitude | H/2 |
| Steepness | H/L |
| Period | time for one wavelength to pass a point (seconds per cycle) 1/f |
| Frequency | number of waves per time (cycles per second) |
| Celerity | L/T (distance per time, meters per second) |
| Deep Water Waves | d greater or equal to L/2, c = L/T |
| Transitional/Intermediate Waves | L/20 < d < L/2 |
| Shallow Water Wave | d less than or equal to L/20, speed is determined by depth only |
| Orbits dissappear below... | d > L/2 |
| At wave base orbit is what of original orbit? | 1/23rd |
| 3 factors affecting the growth of wind waves | wind speed, wind duration, fetch (uninterrupted distance over which wind blows) |
| Fully Developed Sea | energy into sea (wind) = energy out (breaking waves) |
| Significant Wave Height | average of highest 1/3 of waves |
| Breaking Waves | release of energy |
| Waves break when.. | steepness greater or equal to 1/7, H/d ~ 3/4 |
| Shoaling | move into shallower water |
| As wave shoals... | wavelength shortens, waves slow down, wave height increases, wave period stays the same |
| Gentle Slope | small, gentle spilling breakers |
| Steep Slope | large, violent plunging breakers |
| Rip Currents | concentrated return current from advancing waves, horizontal current, flowing out to sea |
| Wave Normals | show direction of wave motion, run perpendicular to lines of crests and trough |
| Beaufort Scale | 0-12 calm to hurricane |
| Waves converge on... | headlands |
| Waves diverge on... | embayments |
| Longshore drift | the result of waves approaching shore at an angle |
| Groins | elongated structures that protrude perpendicular to the shoreline to trap sediments |
| Jetties | protect an inlet or harbor, built in pairs, similar to groin |
| Breakwaters | absorb wave energy before it reaches shore |
| Sea Wall | reflect waves with very little energy loss |
| Constructive interference | crests, troughs line up: bigger waves, high energy |
| Destructive interference | crests line up with troughs, smaller waves, lower energy |
| equation for when wave breaks | H/L > 1/7 |
| Rogue Waves | generated by constructive interference, can be 3-4x larger than other waves in same area, "monster wave" "freak wave" |
| Resonance | waves can be intensified in semi-enclosed basins, if the wave period is multiple of the basin's natural resonance, resosance period is larger for larger bodies of water |
| Seiche | resonant waves in a body of water |
| Tsunami | rapid displacement of large amounts of ocean water |
| Tsunami characteristics | L- 200-400 km, wave speed ~ 200m/s, H- .5-1 m, period - 10min-1hr, small until it hits shallow water |
| DART Buoy System | Deep Ocean Assessment and Reporting of Tsunami, measures pressure changes caused by open-ocean Tsunami |
| Storm surge | not a true wave, a local change in sea level (10 m +) |
| 2 sources of storm surge | low pressure in hurricane eye, high windspeeds |
| Isostatic Rebound | rise/fall of land due to glacier melt |
| Permafrost | soil frozen throughout the year, covers artic, reinforces soil, limits erosion |
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