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The height, length and period of a wave depend upon _________.
the wind speed, the length of time the wind has blown, and the fetch.
How can crashing, collapsing storm waves generate explosive forces and stresses on rocky outcrops and manmade structures?
Pressurized water and compressed air are driven into cracks and fissures
As a deep water wave enters shallow water, the wave slows down and rotates toward being parallel with the shoreline. This process is known as the _______.
Draw a diagram of a view of a non-breaking ocean wave.
(a)=[wavelength] (b)=[trough] (c)=[wave movement??] (d)=[wave height] (e)=[crest]
Currents within the surf zone that flow parallel to the shore are known as ________ currents.
Structures called ________ are built parallel to the shoreline to protect boats from the force of large breaking waves.
A barrier built at a right angle to the beach for the purpose of trapping sand that is moving parallel to the shore is called a(n) ________.
What term denotes a sand bar built across the former mouth of an estuary, separating it from the open sea?
Erosional retreat of a ________ leads to enlargement and extension of a wave-cut platform in the inland direction.
Which one of the following structures is built to protect boats from large breaking waves?
Which of the following is designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion?
all of these or seawall, groin, beach nourishment
The energy that drives surface ocean currents such as the Gulf Stream comes from ___________.
Because of the Coriolis effect, surface ocean currents are deflected to the ______ of their path of motion in the Northern Hemisphere.
Which of the following is correct regarding a wave in the open ocean?
none of these: wave particles move in an almost circular motion; waves do not occur in the open ocean; such waves are called waves of oscillation
Waves begin to "feel bottom" when the depth of the water is ________.
equal to one-half of the wave length.
The movement of water within the surf zone that parallels the shore is termed __________.
The presence of which one of the following would indicate that land had been uplifted or that sea level had fallen?
elevated marine terrace
Chesapeake Bay and Delaware Bay are _____________________.
excellent examples of large estuaries; former river valleys that were flooded by a rise in sea level; associated with a submergent coast;
The movement of sand parallel to the shore __________.
is achieved by longshore currents; is created by waves approaching at oblique angles; may create spits;
One result of wave refraction is that wave energy is concentrated ___________
on headlands projecting into the water
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