Milady Chapter 17

What is always the first step in the hairstyling process?
The Client Consultation
The process of shaping and directing the hair into an S pattern through the use of the fingers, combs, and waving lotion.
Finger Waving.. It was all the rage in the 20's and 30's
Which finger waves are sideways and parallel around the head?
Horizontal Finger Waves
What is the stationary (non-moving) foundation of the curl?
The Base
What kind of curl is placed directly on the base of the curl?
The No-Stem Curl
Always begin a pin curl at what?
The open end
What kind of pin curls are usually recommended at the side fron hairline for a smooth, upswept effect?
Rectangular base
What kind of pin curls are recommended along the front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits in the finished hairstyle?
Triangular Base
Arc Base Pin Curls are also known as what?
Half Moon base curls
What kind of pin curls are suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift?
Square Base
Pin Curls sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair are called?
Carved Curls/Sculptured curls
Pin Curls place immediately behind or below a ridge to form a wave
Ridge Curls
Skip Waves are usually where?
On the side of the head
Barrel Curls have _______ center openings and are fastened to the head in a __________ position on a ________________ base
Large, Standing, Rectangular
Cascade Curls are also known as what? and what do they do?
Stand up curls, used to create height in the hair design
Parts of a roller Curl
Base, Stem, Curl
The Piece of hair on which the roller is placed
The hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller
The Curl
Is also known as the circle
One complete turn around the roller will create a...
C shape Curl
One and a 1/2 turns around the roller will create
A Wave
On Base
also known as FULL base, for FULL volume
Off Base
the the LEASE volume
What is the point where curls of opposite directions meet forming a recessed area?
Hot roller are to be used only on
Dry Hair
Velcro rollers need to stay in the hair for only
5-10 minutes
Also known as teasing, ratting, matting, or French Lacing, involves combing small sections of hair from the ends toward the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion or base
Back Combing
Also known as ruffing, is used to build a soft cushion or to mesh two or more curl patters together for a uniform and smooth comb out
To smooth hair that is backcombed, hold the teeth of a comb or brush at a 45 degree angle pointing away from you.
Wrapping can be done on
wet or dry hair
The technique of drying and styling damp hair in one operation
Blowdry Styling
The blowdryer's nozzle attachment, or _________ is a directional feature that creates a concentrated stream of air.
A Hood dryer is best used for any kind of
Wet set
Teeth that are closely space remove what to create smooth surface?
Definition from the curl
What brush is half-round, rubber based?
A classic styling brush
What brushes are generally oval, with a mixture of boar and nylon bristles?
Grooming brushes
Vent brushes are used to what?
Speed up the blowdrying process
What brush is a thin, nylon styling brush that has a tail for sectioning along with a narrow row of bristles?
A Teasing brush
Foam is also known as
Good for all hair types they offer firmer, longer hold for fine hair with the least amount of heaviness
Liquid Gels
When _______________ is applied to damp hair and blown dry, it creates a smooth, straight look
Straightening Gel
Pomade is also known as
Thermal Waving and Curling are also known as
Marcel Waving
Non Electrical Thermal Irons are favored by many stylists who cater to client with excessively curly hair because of the larger range of barrel or rod sizes and higher heat capabilities
What should you do to test a thermal iron?
clamp a piece of tissue paper or white cloth in it and hold for 5 seconds
One way to remove dirt, oils, and product residue from a thermal iron is to?
dampen a towel or rag and wipe down the barrel of the iron with a soapy solution containing a few drops of ammonia.
The best way to practice manipulative techniques with a thermal iron is to
practice rolling the iron while it is cold
Thermal Curling is for...
Straight Hair, Pressed Hair, and Wigs/Hairpieces (human hair)
What kind of hair can be styled with end curls?
Long, Medium length, or short
When done properly, _____________ temporarily straightens extremely curly or unruly hair by means of a heated iron or comb.
hair pressing
Applying the thermal pressing comb twice on each side of the hair is called
Hard press
In case of scalp skin disease, it is not the cosmetologists job to do what?
Diagnose the condition, but rather to advise the client to see a dermatologist
What kind of hair has the greatest diamete and during the pressing process it requires more heat and pressure than medium or fine hair?
Coarse Hair
A Tight scalp can be made more flexible by the systematic use of
scalp massage, and hair brushing
It may be a good idea to ________ new brass pressing comb so that it will do what?
Temper, So it will hold heat evenly along its entire length and provide consistant results
To tempe a new pressing comb...
1 heat the comb until it's very hot
2 coat the comb in petroleum or pressing oil
3 let is cool down naturally
4 rinse under hot running water to remove oil
When executing an updo always inspect the shape you are building to make sure it is,
well balanced and well proportioned
The Pleat (which means "folded" in French) is much more ____________ ___ __________ than the basic twist, and you can be more creative with the directional placement
Severe and controlled