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FSE 130: Ch.11(I) Cosmetics/Complexions/Methods

STUDY
PLAY
Post-Mortem Cosmetology
Accomplishes recreation of natural form and color by:
- Replacing color in the skin that was lost through the settling of blood, and the loss of blood during embalming
- Counteracting color changes in the skin caused by the graying effect of HCHO
- Covering discolorations in the skin
- Accenting positive facial features
- De-emphasizing negatively appearing features
- Compensating for artificial funeral home lighting
Coloring Methods
Internal and External Methods
Internal Method
involves the use of arterial injection solution that contains a dye. Arterial fluid may have dye in it, or embalmer may add it. Tjhe dye imparts a pinkish color to the skin
External Method
coloration through the application of cosmetics to skin.
Cream Cosmetic
semi-solid consistency
Powder Cosmetic
solid substance in the state of fine, loose particles, produced by crushing or grinding
Liquid Cosmetic
fluid colorant in which pigments are dissolved or suspended
Classification of Cosmetics
- Transparent
- Translucent
- Opaque
Transparent
having the property of transmitting rays of light through its substance so that a body situated or behind it can be distinctly seen. Can include: liquid, cream or powder
Translucent
somewhat transparent; transmitting light but not causing sufficient diffusion to eliminate percetion of distinct images. Can include: liquid, cream or powder
Opaque
not transparent or translucent; not allowing light to pass through. A concealing cosmetic. Can include: liquid and cream
Transparent Liquid: Pros
- Doesn't cake or clump on skin or hair
- Doesn't rub off easily
- Doesn't give pasty appearance
- Dries quickly
- Easily removed from hair
Transparent Liquid: Cons
- Limited color choice
- Doesn't cover discolorations
- Dehydrating if alcohol based
- Doesn't cover wax well
- Can collect in deep pores and appear darker than rest of skin
Opaque Cream: Pros
- May help prevent dehydration
- Choice of thickness (light or heavy)
- Covers wax
- Mixes with wax
Opaque Cream: Cons
- Can look pasty
- Can color hair
- Clumps
- Rubs off easily
- Needs powder application to dry
- Stains clothing
4 Cosmetic Colors Needs To Match Skin
- Dark Brown
- Yellow
- Red
- White
Pigments of Skin
differences in the amount of melanin produced by cells, distribution/size of pigment granules within melanocytes influence skin color
Albinism
a hereditary absence of pigment in the skin, hair and eyes
Hemoglobin
the pigment that give the blood color. Blood can also affect the color of the skin. Bright red, oxygenated blood gives skin a pinker look. Darker, non-oxygenated blood can make the skin appear bluish
Carotene
the yellow pigment of the skin
Freckles
uneven concentrations of melanin appearing as a dark spot, usually on the face. It is not considered a discoloration that needs covering
Variations of Complexion Colors/Racial Classification
- Yellowish
- Brownish
- Reddish
Variations within Complexion Colors/Racial Classification
- Light
- Medium
- Dark
- Darker
4 Basic Factors That Affect Normal Complexion
- Age: duller and grayer skin as texture changes from smoothness of youth to coarser skin of the elderly
- Climate: abundance or lack of sunshine will change melanin concentrations of the skin
- Health: degree of redness of the complexion is affected by the quantity of blood in superficial capillaries
- Genetics: complexion is determined in part by the genes we are born with
Blood Discolorations
the escape of blood into the intercellular spaces due to trauma or hypostasis
Pigmentary Discolorations
- Jaundice: Yellow to Greenish
- Addison's Disease: Bronze
- Decomposition: Green
- Arterial Injection Fluid: Gray
- PM Stain, Contusion, Hospital Markings: Purple
- Dehydration: Yellow-Brown
Changes in Skin Moisture Content
- Sallow appearance of emaciation
- Light and medium browns as an indication of dehydration; as the loss of skin moisture content continues...
- Darker browns, typical of desiccation of the tissues
Foundation
complexion cosmetic in designer cosmetology. A basecoat, applied to the skin as the first layer of makeup
Blush/Rouge
cheek color, usually a cream or powder applied to the cheek and other warm color areas to impart natural-appearing color
Lip Color
cosmetic used to color lips; usually a stick or cream
Mascara
cosmetic used to darken eyelashes
Eye Shadow
colored cosmetic, usually in powder form, applied to upper eyelid
Eyeliner
cosmetic in liquid, cake, or pencial form applied as a line where the eyelashes join the eyelid
Eyebrow Pencil
cosmetic in soft, solid or powdered form applied to give color to the eyebrows
Methods for Applying External Cosmetics
- Gloved hand
- Brush
- Sponge
- Puff/Pad
- Spray