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Sewing and Drafting Quiz

Terms in this set (46)

Crosswise grain
Perpendicular to the selvage of the fabric; Indicates the width of the fabric (i.e. 45 or 60 inches)
Lengthwise grain
Parallel to the selvage of the fabric; strongest/most stable grain
Selvage
Narrow, firmly woven strip, on both lengthwise edges of fabric
true bias
A line that makes an angle of 45 degrees across the length and width of a fabric. Fabric cut on a bias has maximum stretch
fabric width
either 45 or 60 inches usually
Estimate yardage
the measurement from the top of the fabric to edge of last pattern piece to determine how much fabric was used
flat layout
cutting patterns with one single layer
fabric estimate
3 steps; 1) Place patterns on fabric to use the least amount of fabric
2) Make sure all grainlines are parallel to selvage:
-Pin grainline first at top and bottom. Measuring top and bottom of grainline against selvage to ensure pattern is straight/parallel.
-Then pin all around rest of pattern piece
3) Once pinned, measure from top of the fabric to
edge of last pattern piece to get estimate yardage.
on fold layout
cutting patterns with two layers; (1) ensure fabric selvage matches exactly.
pattern info
Indicates what part of the pattern it is, the size and how many pieces to cut.
Notches
Symbols used to indicate darts, seams, zipper length,
style lines, etc.
Grainline
Indicates the direction the pattern should be placed.
Should be parallel to selvage unless indicated differently.
Can be straight, on bias or on fold.
seam
Formed when two or more pieces of fabric and
joined by stitches; 3 dimensions Length, Width, Depth
stitch
Interlacing of sewing thread in specic repeated unit.
-can be used to join fabric, nish an edge or decorative
-has three dimensions: Length, Width, Depth
seam length
Total distance covered by continous series
of stitches. eg. Sides seam, shoulder seam
seam depth
Thickness or compression (flatness) of seam.
seam width
Seam Allowance, space btwn stitch and edge
Stitch Length:
refers to the number of stitches per inch "SPI"
Stitch Depth
refers to the distance between upper and lower stitch surface
Stitch Width
refers to the horizontal span in a single line of stitching
Stitch 101
single thread chainstitch
stitch 103
single thread blindstitch
stitch 205
running stitch
stitch 301
lockstitch
stitch 504
seam knit 3 thread
seam class
refers to four separate classes: superimposed seam (SS), lapped seam (LS), bound seam (BS) and flat seam (FS)
superimposed seam
called SS for short; refers to a class of seams in which two or more pieces of fabric are joined with seam allowance, one piece superimposed over the other when stitched. Most common seam class.
plain seam
a superimposed seam (SS); used on lined garments; where edges will not fray
serged seam open and closed
a superimposed seam (SS); used on un-lined garments, seams serged to not fray
directional serge
the act of serging from one end to the other
french seam
a superimposed seam (SS); used on sheer fabrics
lapped seam
called LS for short; refers to a class of seams in which pieces of fabric are joined by lapping at needle. Largest
seam class.
flat felled seam
a lapped seam (LS); used for durability, on jeans, sportswear
-edges enclosed, therefore will not unravel
bound seam
called BS for short; refers to a class of seams in which one will use encompassing, (or binding) on the edge of a piece of fabric with a separate piece of fabric.
bound seam edge
a bound seam (BS); used to finish fabric edge (striped crop top)
flat seam
called FS for short; refers to a class of seams in which two edges are sewn butted against each other; fabric does not overlap
zig zag
a flat seam (FS); joining two pieces together
lace trim
a flat seam (FS); joining two pieces together (delicate fabric)
stitching class
includes two class of stitches: edge finish and ornamental stitching
edge finish
called EF for short; finishing a cut raw edge on a single ply
fabric with a stitch or by folding and stitching closed.
Does not create a seam, only finishes the edges.
serged hem
a kind of edge finish (EF) without being folded
clean finished hem
a kind of edge finish (EF) that is serged and folded once
clean finished hem double folded
a kind of edge finish (EF) that is serged and folded twice
ornamental stitch
called OS for short; decorative stitch
anywhere on the garment. Does not create a seam,
stitched directly on fabric piece.
decorative stitch
a kind of ornamental stitching; decoration on pocket
pin tucks
a kind of ornamental stitching; sewn directly into fabric
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