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Science Fusion Earth's Water and Atmosphere - Oceanography Lesson 2 Ocean Waves
Terms in this set (22)
What is a wave?
Any disturbance that transfers energy through matter or empty space
What is an ocean wave?
A disturbance that transfers energy through ocean water
What are the two main parts of a wave?
What is the crest?
The highest point of a wave
What is a trough?
The lowest point of a wave
What is a wavelength?
The distance between two adjacent wave crests or wave troughs
What is wave amplitude?
Half the distance between the crest and the trough
What is frequency?
The number of waves produced in a given amount of time; the measure is waves/time
What is wave period?
A measurement of how much time it takes for a wave to pass the fixed point
What is the difference between frequency and wave period?
1) Frequency is measured in waves/time.
2) Wave period is measured in time/wave.
What is wave speed?
How fast a wave travels
How is wave speed measured?
It is measured in distance/time.
How do you calculate wave speed?
wave speed (v) = wavelength x frequency
What type of waves are ocean waves?
What are mechanical waves?
They carry energy through matter, such as water.
What are the different possibilities in which energy is transferred to ocean water to cause ocean waves?
2) Earth quakes
5) Meteorites and Asteroids
How does wind cause ocean waves?
When it blows across the water's surface it transfers energy to the water. The energy is then carried by the wave.
What happens when a wave moves through the water?
Waves only transfer energy through the water. They don't actually move the water.
Why do waves crash on shore?
Changes in the depth of water cause waves to crash. Energy is transferred to the ocean floor and the wave slows down.
Why does wave height increase closer to the shore?
As water depth decreases, more water is forced between wave crests.
What is a tsunami?
A series of waves that form when a large volume of ocean water is suddenly moved up or down.
What can cause a tsunami?
2) Volcanic Eruptions
4) The impact of a meteorite or an asteroid
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