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a tiny wave with a wavelength of less than 1.73 centimeters, whose restoring force is surface tension; the first type of wave to form when wind blows.
Coastal Data Information Program monitored by the Scripps Institution of Oceanography in California and consisting of a wave buoy array located on the West coast of the United States that records wave height and direction.
the uninterrupted distance over which wind blows without a significant change in direction, a factor in wind wave development
a wave with wavelength greater than 1.73 centimeters, whose restoring forces are gravity and momentum
in ocean waves, the circular pattern of water molecule movement at the air-sea interface. orbital motion contrasts with the side-to-side or back-and-forth motion of pure transverse or longitudinal waves
a device that is mounted on the sea floor, designed to weigh the water that passes over it, as a measure of wave height
a wave of moving energy in wich the wave form moves in one direction along the surface of the transmission medium
a strong, fast current formed by the seaward return flow of surf. sometimes called, erroneously, rip tide
a term used to describe simultaneous wind waves of many wavelengths, forming a chaotic ocean surface. sea is common in an area of wind wave origin
a wave in which water oscillates without causing progressive wave forward movement. there is no net transmission of energy in a standing wave
a term used to define the confused mass of agitated water rushing shoreward during and after a wind wave breaks
a wave moving through water deeper than one-twentieth but shallower than half its wavelength
the reflection of progressive waves by a vertical barrier. reflection occuurs with little loss of energy
how fast the energy of a progressive wave is moving forward. calculation differs for deep-water and shallow-water waves; see formulas at the beginning of this list, and in the text
height-to-wavelength ratio of a wave. theoretical maximum steepness of deep-water waves is 1:7
a group of waves of similar wavelength and period moving in the same direction across the ocean surface
the horizontal distance between two successive wave crests (or troughs) in a progressive wave
the length of time the wind blows over the ocean surface, a factor in wind wave development
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