Unit 4: Milady Standard Cosmetology 2008 Chapter 18 Chemical Texture

What is the definition of chemical hair relaxing?

The process of permanently rearranging the basic structure of overly curly hair into a straight form.

Dose a sodium hydroxide relaxer require a shampoo before application?

No, no, and no

What is the purpose of a neutralizer?

It is required to stop the action of the chemical relaxer.

What determines the processing time of a relaxer?

1. Strength of relaxer used
2. If a base is used
3. Type of hair

What are the two most common types of chemical hair relaxers?

1. Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG)
2. Sodium Hydroxide

Name the 3 basic steps, in order, involved in hair relaxing?

1. Processing
2. Neutralizing
3. Conditioning

What are the three strengths of hair relaxers, and which relaxer is used for fine, medium, and coarse texture hair?

1. Mild: Fine Hair
2. Regular: Medium Hair
3. Super/Strong: Coarse Hair

What are you looking for when doing a hair analysis on overly curly hair?

1. Texture
2. Porosity
3. Elasticity
4. Extent of damage

The action of a Sodium Hydroxide relaxers will cause the hair to?

Soften and Swell

What is Lanthionization?

The process of breaking the hair's Disulfide Bond and converting it into a Lanthionine Bond (removing 1 Sulfur Atom) when rinsing relaxer from the hair.

Why is a base applied when using in chemical hair relaxing?

To protect the scalp and skin from possible caustic burns.

True or False
Body (scalp) heat will accelerate (speed-up) relaxer cream.


During the process of applying a relaxer cream, when do you apply the relaxer near the scalp?

The relaxer cream is applied last.

After rinsing the relaxer from the hair, a ____________ shampoo is performed.


It is important when using a "no-base" relaxer to apply protective cream on the full ____________ and around the _________

Hairline, ears

Name the areas from first to last, of where a sodium hydroxide relaxer cream is applied on the hair strands.

Mid-strand first, then scalp area and ends.

What area of a comb is used when applying the relaxing cream?

The back of the comb.

What is periodic strand testing?

Checking the action of the relaxer by stretching the strands to see how fast the natural curls are being removed.

What water temperature is used to rinse the hair of the relaxer processing cream?


When performing a sodium hydroxide retouch, the relaxer cream is first applied where?

To the new-growth only.

If your client has scalp abrasions, should she receive a chemical hair relaxing service?

NO. This should be the easiest question to answer:)

How do you know when the relaxer has processed sufficiently?

By doing a periodic strand test.

Smooth and press the strand to the scalp using back of comb or finger. If strand remains smooth, it is sufficiently relaxed. NOTE: If the curl returns, the hair needs further processing.

What is a soft-curl permanent?

Using a thio relaxer and wrapping hair on large tools/perm wave rods.

Why is wearing gloves during a relaxer service considered the one safety precaution that must be followed?

To protect our hands and skin from the chemicals.

What other name are Sodium Hydroxide relaxers also known by?

Lye Relaxers

What are the steps taken after processing has completed for a soft-curl permanent?

1. Rinse and towel/blot the hair
2. Apply neutralizer, process for the asppropriate time.
3. Carefully remove rods
4. Rinse Hair
5. Style hair

What are Metal Hydroxide Relaxers?

An ionic compound formed by a metal combined with oxygen and hydrogen.
Examples: Sodium Hydroxide, Lithium and Potassium Hydroxide.

How to remember Metal Hydroxide Relaxers:
LiSP = My metal has a lisp

Metal Hydroxide Relaxers are LiSP:
Li = Lithium
S = Sodium
P = Potassium

Why is a normalizing lotion used?

To restore the hair and scalp to their normal acidic pH.

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