Terms in this set (43)
What is a movement of energy through a body of water?
When do most waves form?
when winds blowing across the water's surface transmit their energy to the water
Where do waves start?
in the open ocean
What two things affect the size of the wave?
the strength of the wind / how long the wind blows
The highest point of the wave is the__________________?
The lowest point of the wave is the _______________?
The vertical distance between the crest and the trough is called the ______________________.
wave height is the vertical distance between the _______________ and the _____________________.
crest and the trough
The horizontal distance between two crests or two troughs is the ______________________.
Wave length is the _______________distance between two ________ or two _________________.
horizontal distance / two crests / two troughs
when a wave passes through the ocean, how do individual water molecules move?
in a circular path
T/F Energy waves pass through the water.
t/f Energy waves do not move water.
t/f Waves are measured by their frequency.
frequency is ___________.
the number of waves that pass a point in a certain amount of time.
white capped waves that crash on the shore are called _______
In deep water, these waves travel as long, low waves called ______________.
When do swells become breakers?
when they reach shallow water and the waves break again the shore
t/f Near shore, wave height increases and wavelength decreases.
_______ between the shallow ocean floor and the water causes the waves to slow down and change shape.
why does that happen?
the water is shallow.
the bottom of the waves begin to touch the ocean floor
the waves slow down
the wave height increases
the wave shape changes
the top of the wave topples
what usually causes a tsunami to happen?
earthquake beneath the ocean floor
longshore drift is _________________?
the movement of sand along the beach
a rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening
What is one example of how a rip current can form?
water breaking through a sandbar to flow back down the sloping ocean bottom
a method of reducing erosion along a stretch of beach by building a wall of rocks or concrete
What are three causes of waves
gravitational force of the moon and sun
t/f Waves transfer energy through water.
when wind blows across a body of water, _____________ causes the water to move along with the wind.
wave height depends on what three things?
distance over which the wind blows
the length of time the wind blows
a tsunami is a wave that forms _____________the earth's surface.
t/f tsunami's are usually caused by volcanoes.
false - earthquakes
t/f tsunami's are most common in the atlantic ocean.
false - Pacific
In a tsunami, the abrupt movement of the ocean floor pulses of ______________ through the water above it.
What do many coastal nations now have to help monitor tsunamis?
tsunami warning systems
t/f waves are transferring energy
what is long shore drift?
the movement of sand along the beach due to waves.
Long shore drift is the movement of sand along the beach ________
due to waves
As waves come into shore, the water washes up the beach ___________ carrying sand grains with it.
at an angle
As the waves slow down, they deposit the _______ they are carrying on the _______________.
sand / sand bar
what is a shallow underwater slope in a long ridge?
when water breaks through part of the sandbar and flows back down the sloping ocean's floor, it creates a ____________
T/F rip currents are dangerous and can carry a strong swimmer out to sea.
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