Oceanography chapter 8

Most ocean waves are caused by
The wind
Which of the following statements about the physical characteristics of waves is false?
The depth at which orbital motion ceases is called the still water level.
Circular orbital motion in waves becomes negligible at depths greater than _____
Half the wave's wavelength
In deep water, a wave with a wavelength of 60 meters and a wave height of 6 meters will have orbital motion down to a depth of _____
30 meters
Which of the following is not a physical change that a wave experiences as the wave reaches shallower water?
The wavelength increases.
The type of breaker that is best for surfing is called a ______ breaker.
Which of the following statements about orthogonals is false?
Orthogonals are the same thing as the wave crests.
What is a wave refraction?
the bending of waves as they approach a coastline.
Of the following factors, all increase the amount of energy in waves except _____
increasing water vapor content in the air
Which of the following statements about swell is false?
swell must have large wave height.
Which of the following statements about the movement of waves in a wave train is false?
Waves pick up speed as they move out of the sea area where they are generated.
In which ocean do most tsunami occur?
If a tsunami were generated near the hawaiian islands, how long would it take for the tsunami to travel the 3500 kilometers of open ocean to the west coast of the united states?
About 5 hours.
Of the following events, which are capable of generating waves?
All 5
Of the following statements about ocean waves, which are true?
-can be classified by the depth of water they move in
-can be classified by how they form
-can be described by their period, wavelength, and height
Of the following statements about ocean waves, which ones describe wave steepness?
-if wave steepness ever exceeds a 1:7 ratio, then the wave breaks.
-Wave steepness is defined as wave height divided by wavelength.
Of the following statements about ocean waves, which ones describe wave period?
-The time it takes for one full wavelength to pass a given point
-the inverse of wave frequency
Of the following waves, which one has the deepest wave base?
a wave with a 2 meter wave height and a wavelength of 1000 meters.
Based on the equations for determining the speed of shallow water waves, which one of the following variables is necessary to determine the speed of shallow-water waves?
Water depth
Of the following physical changes that occur to waves as they move into shallow water, which are true?
All except "Wave speed increases"
Of the following offshore ocean conditions, which would likely produce spilling breakers?
-a gently sloping sandy bottom
-a gently sloping rocky bottom
Of the following situations involving orthogonals, which one involves the highes tenergy?
Orthogonals that become more closely spaces as they approach the shore.
Of the following statements about tsunami, which are true?
-Very long wavelength
-Undetectable by ships
-Warning system uses seismic waves
-At the coast, looks like a suddenly occuring high/low tide