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Milady Chapter 20 Chemical Texture

Terms in this set (70)

Chemical texture procedures involve changing the structure of the hair:
both physically and chemically
The natural pH of hair is between:
4.5 and 5.5
Compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur are:
amino acids
Peptide bonds are also known as:
end bonds
The strongest of the three side bonds are:
disulfide bonds
Salt bonds are broken by:
changes in pH
In permanent waving, the size of the curl is determined by the:
size of the rod
The most common type of perm rod is the:
concave rod
Which end paper technique uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope?
bookend wrap
Base placement is determined by the:
angle at which the hair is wrapped
For _____ placement, the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base
on-base
In half off-base placement, the hair is wrapped at an angle of:
90 degrees or perpendicular to the base section
A _____ perm wrap is wrapped perpendicular to the length of the rod, in overlapping concentric layers.
croquignole
The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of
thio
What is the active ingredient in alkaline permanents?
ammonium thioglycolate
Cold wave is another term for a(n) _____ wave.
alkaline
What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions?
GMTG
True acid waves have a pH between:
4.5 and 7.0
A pH of _____ is neutral for hair.
5
What kind of waves are sulfites used in?
low-pH
What two important functions are performed by the neutralization process?
deactivating waving solution and rebuilding disulfide bonds
Thio neutralization rebuilds disulfide bonds by:
removing hydrogen
The basic permanent wrap is also known as a:
straight set wrap
Which wrapping pattern uses pie-shaped base sections?
curvature permanent wrap
The measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows is:
viscosity
The neutralizer used with thio relaxers is usually:
hydrogen peroxide
Which straightening method combines use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing?
Japanese Thermal Straightening
Hydroxide relaxers remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond, converting it into a _____ bond.
lanthionine
Guanidine hydroxide relaxers are advertised and sold as _____ relaxers.
no-lye
What is used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing?
base cream
The application for a virgin relaxer starts _____ away from the scalp.
1/4 in to 1/2 inch
A _____ is a thio-based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves.
soft curl permanent
A _____ is a conditioner with an acidic pH that conditions hair and restores the natural pH prior to shampooing.
normalizing lotion
Generally, keratin straightening treatments eliminate up to what percent of frizz and curl?
95 percent
The side bonds of the _____ must be broken in order to change the natural wave pattern of the hair.
cortex
Which type of hair requires a highly alkaline chemical solution?
coarse, resistant hair
​Polypeptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by _____ bonds.
peptide
​A _____ bond is NOT a type of side bond.
peptide
​Hydrogen bonds can be broken by:
water or heat
Disulfide bonds account for about _____ of the hair's overall strength.​
1/3rd
The base direction can be:​
horizontal, vertical, or diagonal
The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the:
​addition of hydrogen
Which of these is NOT a component of all exothermic waves?​
hydroxide relaxer
​Which type of metal is NOT commonly used to form ionic compounds in metal hydroxide relaxers?
magnesium (mg)
When the silicone polymers and formalin in keratin-based straightening treatments are heated to high temperatures, they release:
​formaldehyde gas
An acid-balanced wave has a pH of:
7.0
Which type of wave is activated by an outside heat source, such as a conventional hood-type hair dryer?
endothermic
A properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately _____ percent of the hair's disulfide bonds.​
50
Which type of perm should you recommend if the client has very damaged hair?
true acid wave
Underprocessed hair is usually:​
straighter at the top and curlier at the ends
What is the primary benefit of ammonia-free waves?
They don't have a strong odor.
The strength of any permanent wave is based on the:
concentration of its reducing agent
Overprocessed hair:​
occurs when too many disulfide bonds are broken
The first function of thio neutralization is the:
​deactivation of any remaining waving lotion
When performing a perm, you should always:
​smell the hair after the recommended time has elapsed
A preliminary test curl will NOT answer which of these questions?
Is the client allergic to any of the products that will be used?
How long is a typical soft bender rod?
​12 inches
​Which method of wrapping provides the most control over the hair ends?
double flat wrap
With the _____, base sections are offset from each other row by row.
bricklay permanent wrap
​The _____ uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
​weave technique
The double-rod wrap technique is especially effective on _____ hair.
long
​When performing a permanent wave, you should:
immediately replace towels that have become wet with solution
When performing a test to determine whether metallic salts are present, the hair will _____ in the solution if metallic salts are present.​
​lighten rapidly
Thio relaxers use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving, but at a:
​higher concentration and a higher pH
Hydroxide relaxers are:
very strong alkalis
Which type of relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers?
sodium hydroxide
The sulfites used as low-pH hair relaxers are compatible with:
thio relaxers
​It is recommended that you apply base cream when using:
both base relaxers and no-base relaxers
​A super-strength relaxer is recommended if the client has _____ hair.
extremely curly
When performing a chemical hair relaxing service, it is appropriate to:
conduct periodic strand tests during the service
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