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61 terms

Chemical texture services Chapter 18

STUDY
PLAY
curl reformation
The chemical texture service that loosens overly curly hair into loose curls or waves is
chemical and physical changes
chemical and procedures involve changing the hair structure using:
cuticle
The exterior hair structure layer that protects the hair from damage is the
cortex
The layer of the hair that provides strength and elasticity is the :
disulfide bonds
Hair bonds that cannot be broken by heat or water are:
4.5 and 5.5
The natural pH of hair is between:
client consultation
One of the most important parts of a successful texture service is the:
metallic salts
Permanent waves cannot be preformed if the hair is coated with:
sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together
Disulfide bonds are chemical - based side bonds that are formed when
potential of hydrogen
The measurement used to determine the hydrogen ions in a solution is :
allow penetration to the cortex layer
Chemical texturizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair by lifting the cuticle layer to :
keratin proteins
Long, coiled polypeptide chains that are part of the hairs structure are :
condition of the hair
The client record card should include a complete evaluation of the length, texture,color, and :
abrasions or signs of the scalp disease
During the hair and scalp analysis procedure, the stylist should look for:
coarse - textured hair
Hair texture that requires a longer processing or rewetting of solution to ensure complete saturation
density
The measurement of the number of hairs per square inch on the head is
elasticity
An indication of the strength of the side bonds is :
chemical change process
The second process os a permanent wave is the :
size of the rod
In permanent waving, the size of the curl is determined by the :
straight rod
The permanent wave rod that produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand is a :
double -flat wrap
A wrapping technique using two endpapers, one placed under the strand and one over is the :
base section
Permanent wave rods are placed onto subsections of a panel called:
base placement also known as base control
The position of a permanent wave rod in relation to its base section is the:
half - off base placement
The technique of wrapping at a 90 - degree angle or straight out from the center is :
croquignole method
The two basic types of wrapping hair around a perm rod are the spiral method and:
piggyback wrap
A technique used to wrap extra-long hair using two rods in opposite directions is a (n)
oxygen
A reduction reaction involves either the addition of hydrogen or removal of:
thioglycolic acid
A common, colorless reducing agent used in chemical texture services is :
ammonium thioglycolate
The main reducing agent in alkaline permanents is :
9.0 and 9.6
Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between :
glyceryl monothioglycolate
main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions
heat
An exothermic chemical reaction produces:
The term pH literally means
Potential of hydrogen
Chemical texturizers raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to
soften and swell the hair shaft
Long coral polypeptides chain that make _______
97% structure of hair
Chains of amino acids linked by peptide bonds are called
polypeptides
chemical base sidebonds that are formed when two sulfa type chains are joined together are
disulfide bonds
Building blocks of proteins are
amino acids
Current perm wrap service only alters
sidebonds
Some home haircoloring products contain ________ that are not compatible with permanent waving
Metallic salt
Diameter of a single hair strand
Texture
Produce a tighter curl in the center, and looser curl on either side of the strand
Concave rods
Concave rods
Are the most common type of perm rod
Uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.
Bookend wrap
Uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped
single flat wrap
The hair is wrapped 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section
On base placement
There are two basic methods of wrapping the hair around the perm rod
croquignole and spiral
Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called
reduction
An _____________ chemical reaction is one that absorbs heat from its surrounding
endothermic
Endothermic waves
are activated by an outside heat source (hood type hair dryer)
Uses an ingredient other than ATG as the primary reducing agent
THIO-free waves
Permanents based on sulfites are very weak and do not provide a
firm curl
The first function of permanent waving (thio) neutralization is the
deactivation, or (neutralization) harding hair to new form
Neutralization of any waving lotion that remains in the hair after processing and rinsing chemical reaction involved is called
oxidation
___________radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head
curvature perm wrap
Using zigzag partings to divide base areas
weave technique
The neutralizer used with thio relaxers is an
oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide
What is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers
hydroxide ion
All hydroxide relaxers are very strong ___________
Alkalis
hydroxide relaxers most have a pH over
13 and can swell the hair up to twice its normal diameter
Thio relaxer is needed to swell the hair but it is the ____that breaks the disulfide bonds
thio