66 terms

Evolution of Fashion Chpt 7-8

STUDY
PLAY
Directoire/Empire/Regency Period
1795-1820. Hygiene became more important and garments were meant to be changed often and clean. White and pale shade were predominant and ornamentation was minimal. Beginning of women taking the lead in fashion trends. Renewed interest in greek fashion
Romantic Period
1820-1850. Named after the movement in the arts and literature that stresses expression of emotion.
French Revolution
Significant event marking the turn from the 18th to the 19th c.
Empire Line
The high waisted, relatively straight silhouette came to be know as the __________. It was named for the new French ruler, Napoleon.
Merveilleuses
Female fashion extremist. (The marvelous ones)
Incroyables
Male fashion extremist. (The incredible ones)
á la victime
A popular haircut during the Directoire/empire/regency period. It copied the look of those doomed to die by guillotine. The red neck ribbon enhanced the look.
Chemise-like gown
Gown adopted by everyone in the Directoire/empire/regency period. Had a low neck and a narrowed silhouette. Corset was used only to accentuate the bust.
Spencer
A short jacket cut to just below the bustline. Often a darker color than the dress. Worn during the Directoire/empire/regency period.
accessories used during Directoire/empire/regency
Reticule, Cockade fan, muff
Pantaloons
Replaced knee breeches for day and evening. Were very tightly fitted, often had straps that fit under the instep to keep them from riding up. (also called trousers)
Cravats/stocks
Standing collars men wore in the early 1800's.
George Bryan Brummell
An immaculately dressed man. He carried a top hat, riding gloves, and wore boots. Believed in cleanliness as being very important.
Banyans
Dressing gowns men wore in the early 1800's
Victoria
Young queen who ascended the throne in 1837.
Magazines
First published in the 1830's
Romantic Period Undergarments
Chemise, corset, and still, full petticoats.
Evening Dress
A typical dress of the early part of the Romantic Period. Neck is square and the waistline is dripping down a bit. The tubular skirt has a slight flare at the hem, with all the fullness gathered to the back.
Walking Dress
Later in the romantic period. Waistline moves to a normal position on the waist. The silhouette is an X, with wide shoulders, small waist, and wide hem.
Pelisse
A coat dress worn in the Romantic period.
Bonnet
First appeared in the Romantic period.
Fichu-pelerine
Small jacket thing worn over the pelisse in the Romantic period that is tucked into the belt.
Leg-of-mutton
Sleeves that are very full at the shoulder and slim at the wrist. Popular in the 1820's of the romantic period.
Short
Dress hems during the romantic period were __________ to show of delicate feet and Shoes
Apollo knot
Popular hairstyle during the romantic period.
Bishop sleeve
By the late 1830's in the romantic period, the sleeve fullness moved down the arm. (skirts also lengthen and skirts were less bouffant)
Tea Cosy
Trend in 1840 (romantic period) which consisted of a soft, droopy shoulder, tight waist, and full skirts with multiple petticoats. Mobility of the arms was difficult
Riding outfit
Innovation of women's fashion in the 1840's. The top of the garment looked like a tight fitting man's jacket, and the skirt was full and long, still making riding difficult.
Reticules
Small purses
Frock coats
Coats for daytime during the romantic period. They had skirts extending below the waist. (a favorite for daytime wear)--first appeared in the romantic period.
Tailcoats
Coats cut short in front with a extended tail at the back. (reserved for evening wear). --first appeared in the romantic period.
Well dressed
This was a great concern of men in the 1840s. Their fashion become darker, and men started spending a lot of money to appear casual yet elegant. Multiple changes of clothes was necessary. Later colorful waistcoats became popular.
Overcoats/cloaks
What men wore outdoors during the romantic period
Industrial Revolution
Had a major impact on textile manufacturing, and it made it much easier for the general population to acquire fabrics for clothing at a reasonable cost.
Crinoline Period
From 1850-1870. The first sewing machine was invented. Sleeves were attached from the shoulder line and following the natural line of the arm, and widen at the bottom. Tiers were very popular on dresses. Had high necklines
The Bustle Period
From 1870-1900. Named for the bustle, the predominant feature of the women;s dress during the time.
Cage crinoline
Introduced during the crinoline period. Was worn under dresses to add fullness (also called a hoopskirt).
Charles Worth
Established a couture place in Paris
Bloomer Dress
Women's right advocates tried to reform the women's dress. Was rejected a ridiculous idea.
Empress Eugenie
Charles Worth designed for her. She was one of the most watched women during the Crinoline period.
Pagoda sleeves
Wide bell sleeve in the later part of the Crinoline Period.
Corset of 1845
A reasonable comfortable corset during the early part of the Crinoline period. Created rounded fullness. The tiny waist was emphasized
Corset of 1860
The corset during the later part of the Crinoline period was longer at the hip and trimmer through the torso
Brillant
Colors of dye that were discovered during the Crinoline Period. These synthetic dyes were made from coal tar. (also called garish)
Bathing suit
First appearance of this clothing item was during the Crinoline Period.
Shawl/short jacket/cape/mantle
During the crinoline period, outdoor garments worn by women.
Miser's Purse
The women's purse used during the Crinoline period. Other popular accessories were under sleeves, parasols, and jewelry.
Morning coat
Coat wore by men during the Crinoline period that didn't close. The waistline was relaxed during this period, and trousers have slim legs (Pantaloons are no longer fashionable)
Sack coat
Shorter jacket worn during the crinoline period, similar to modern day menswear jacket. Much looser, became very popular.
Knickerbockers
Similar to breeches, worn during the crinoline period for hunting.
Overcoat/Chesterfield
Warmer coats worn during the crinoline period by men.
Inverness cape
A wrist length attached cape worn by men during the Crinoline period.
Bloomers
knee length pants worn by women in the bustle period (undergarment). Was worn as a garment during the 19th century to ride bicycles in
Early Bustle
This bustle looks similar to the crinoline hoop but is flatter in the front and pushes out in the back (1870-75). This one manipulated the full skirt into a waterfall-like effect, often with a train.
Middle Bustle
A narrower bustle that is smooth over the hips (1876-83)
Later Bustle
This bustle has a shelf-like back (90 degree angle) (1884-90). Rarely had a train.
Sheath/cuirasse
The middle bustle, which dropped fullness to below the back of the knees.
Mermaid Silhouette
Popular dresses in the late 70's and early 80's (in the bustle period). Sleeves tended to be tight. Fabric is fitted tightly to the knees, then flares out into a train. Walking was difficult.
Aesthetic Movement
Rejected the middle bustle because it made it difficult to walk. Corsets were removed, and garments became lighter and less restrictive. Was ridiculed, however, did raise awareness.
The Nineties
1890-1900. Bustle lost its prominence, and the only reminder was a small group of pleats at the back of the skirt. Sleeves grew larger, and the X shaped silhouette returned. Women "suits" also became popular--tailor made was important. Leg-of-mutton sleeves were popular again.
Blouse/skirt
Called shirt waist is a copy of a male shirt. Was worn because women began to partake in office work and active sports.
Gibson Girl
The full hairstyle of 1898
Tuxedo jacket
New jacket that came about in men's fashion 1870-1900.
Wear-the tuxedo
Younger men preferred this in the 1870-1990. It was a shorter jacket.
Norfolk jacket
Jacket worn during the 1870-1990, that had deep vertical pleats down the front and back, through which a matching belt was inserted.
Inverness
Exotic coat introduced in the 1870-1990s.