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history of fashion vocabulary early and late middle ages

class vocabulary handout salt lake community college Byzantine (early middle ages) late middle ages renaissance
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large square decoration in contrasting colors and fabric
tablion
medallion shaped decorations
segmentae
originally Greek military- cloak fastened on right shoulder with fibula
chlamys
cloth embroidered collar, gold, set with beads/precious gems covering shoulders
maniakis
undershirts or under dresses made of light weight linen or cotton batiste
chemises
loose fitting breeches fastened at the waist with a belt
braies
cloak from one piece of fabric, fastened on one shoulder, slit for the head
open/closed mantle
elaborate, closely fitted, long garment, costly fabric worn by upper class men/women
bliaut
linen band passed from one temple, under chin and up to the other temple
barbette
a standing band, like a crown over which a veil might be draped
fillet
fine white scarf that covered the neck, the center covering the chin, fastened above ear
wimple
under tunic
cote
outer tunic
surcote/cote-hardie
loose with short/no sleeves fastening under arms with partial seams/fabric tabs
tabard
sleeve cut full under arm, tapering to close fit at the wrist
magyar sleeve
narrow at top widening to large, funnel shape at wrist
funnel sleeve
widened from shoulder to form a full, hanging pouch below tight cuff
bagpipe sleeve
military attire, links of metal for armor
chain mail
full garment with long, wide sleeves, slit below the shoulder in front for the arm to slip, leaving the long sleeve hanging behind
herigaut/gardecorps
exaggerated, pointed hat
henin
padded 'vest', sleeved version for civilian dress, worn over chemise
pourpoint/doublet
fitted over shoulders, widened below into deep tubular folds held by belt, worn by both men and women
houppelande
piece sewn into men's breeches covering genitals
codpiece
elongated, pointed shoe
poulaine
sewing together sections of different colored fabrics within one garment
parti-colored
form of decoration, edges of garment cut into points or scallops
dagging
hood, cut and sewn to cape
chaperone
long hanging tube of fabric at back of hood
liripipe
under jacket worn over shirt
doublet
over cloak open at sides
huke
under shirt for men
shirt or camica
women's under dress linen or cotton, full
camica
platform shoes, extreme in Venice
chopines
embroidery, black silk figures
spanish work
contrasting linings placed under slashes or inserts
slashings/panes
separate collar, very wide, often lace and stiffly starched
ruff
large padded breech
trunk hose
stiff or boned hoop underskirt, smaller top, wider at bottom
verdugale/spanish farthingale
padded roll placed around waist to support dress
bum roll
spokes fastened to top most hoop to a waistband, same width throughout
wheel farthingale