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chapter 15 hairstyling

back brushing

technique used to build a soft cushion or mesh two or more curl patterns together or a uniform and smooth comb out; also called ruffing

back combing

combing small sections of hair from the ends toward the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion or base; also called teasing, ratting, matting, or french lacing

barrel curls

pin curls with large center openings, fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular base


stationary, or nonmoving, foundation of a pin curl, which is the area closest to the scalp; the panel of hair on which a roller is placed

blow dry styling

technique of drying and styling damp hair in a single operation

carved curls

pin curls sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head

cascade or stand up curls

pin curls fastened to the head in a standing position to allow the hair to flow upward and then downward


the part of the pin curl that forms a complete circle; also, the hair that is wrapped around the roller

closed center curls

pin curls that produce waves that get smaller toward the end


hair that is wrapped around the roller; also called circle


nozzle attachment of a blow dryer; directs the air stream to any section of the hair more intensely


blow dryer attachment that causes the hair to flow more softly and helps to accentuate or keep texural definition

double press

technique of passing a hot curling iron through through the hair before performing a hot press

end curls

used to give a finished appearance to hair ends either turned under or over

finger waving

process of shaping and directing the hair into a pattern of "s" shaped waves through the use of the fingers, combs, and waving lotions

finishing spray

hairspray used to lock in a style after completion

foam or mousse

a light, airy, whipped styling product the resembles shaving foam and builds moderate body and volume into the hair

full base curls

thermal curls that sit in the center of their base; strong curls with full volume

full stem curl

curl placed completely off the base; allows for the greatest mobility


thickened styling preperation that comes in a tube or bottle and has strong hold

hair pressing

method of teporarily straightening extremely curly or unruly hair by means of a heated iron or comb

hair spray

a styling product applied in the form of a mist to hold a style in position; available in a variety of holding strengths

hair wrapping

a technique used to keep curly hair smooth and straight

half base

position of a curl or a roller one half off its base, giving medium volume and movement

half base curls

thermal curls placed half off their base; strong curls with moderate lift or volume

half stem curl

curl placed half off the base; permits medium movement and gives good control to the hair

hair press

technique that removes 100 percent of the curl by applying the pressing comb twice on each side of the hair


the point where curls of opposite directions meet forming a recessed area

liquid gels or texurizers

styling products that are lighter and more viscous or sticky than firm hold gels, used for easy styling, defining, and molding

medium press

technique removing 60 to 75 percent of the curl by applying a thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair using slightly more pressure than in the soft press

no stem curl

curl placed directly on its base; produces a tight, firm, long lasting curl and allows minimum mobility

off base

the position of a curl or a roller completely off its base for maximum mobility and minimum volume

off base curls

thermal curls placed completely off their base; have only slight lift or volume

on base

position of a curl or roller directly on its base for maximum volume; also called full base

open center curls

pin curls that produce even, smooth waves and uniform curls

pomade or wax

styling products that add considerable weight to the hair by causing strands to join together, showing seperation in the hair


technique of forcing the hair between the thumb and the back of the comb to create tension

ridge curls

pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a wave


round, solid prong of a thermal iron


sections of hair that is molded in a circular movement in preparation for the formation of curls


the clamp that presses the hair against the barrel or rod of a thermal iron


styling product ingredient that adds gloss and sheen to the hair while creating textural deifnition

skip waves

two rows of ridge curls, usually on the side of the head

soft press

technique of pressing the hair to remove 50 to 60 percent of the curl by applying the thermal pressing comb once on each side of the hair

spiral curl

method of curling the hair by winding a strand around the rod


section of the pin curl between the base and first arc of the circle that gives the circle its direction and movement; the hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller

straightening gel

styling product applied to damp hair that is wavy, curly, or extremely curly, and then blown dry; relaxes the hair for a smooth, straight look

thermal irons

an implement comprised of a rod handle, barrel or rod, and shell that is made of quality steel used to dry hair using heat

thermal waving and curling

methods of waving and curling straight or pressed hair using thermal irons and special manipulative curling techniques on dry hair


hairstyle in which the hair is arranged up and off the shoulders

volume base curls

thermal curls placed very high on their base; provide maximum lift or volume


styling product that adds volume to the shape, especially at the base, when the hair is blow dryed

waving lotion

type of hair gel that makes the hair pliable enough to keep it in place during the finger waving procedure

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