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Product Development ch.9
Terms in this set (55)
A separate drawing in a larger scale that magnifies an area so that a patternmaker or sample maker can understand exactly what is expected is called a "projection".
Closed specs are left rather generic to allow flexibility during production.
Placing a sizing label on a garment is a mandated standard.
When considering where to source patternmaking, it is important to consider which of the following
familiarity with Imperial measurements.
whether they have similar perception of fit and body proportions
whether they require more time to check samples
The most commonly used method of making patterns today is:
Flat-pattern techniques of making changes to a basic pattern or sloper
Typical providers of CAD systems for flat-pattern include
Although computerized marker making is faster than the manual method, it is not as accurate because it is easier to overlap pieces in a computer than by hand.
One advantage of in-house patternmaking is the possibility of better fit for the target customer.
Which of the following is NOT true about the trace-off method of obtaining a pattern for a first sample?
Tracing is a very effective way to copy complex garments
Decisions about what method to use for patternmaking are impacted by cost. List the five methods of patternmaking in order of the most time consuming (and therefore most expensive). Comment on the impact that cost has on the level of creativity and quality.
Draping: most expensive-truly creative
Pattern Drafting: less costly-not sensitive to differences in fit for diverse populations
Flat Pattern: less costly than drafting- consistent fit, cookie cutter looks
Knock-Off: can be as costly as drafting or flat pattern depending on which method is used-can look too much like the original
Trace-Off: cheapest method-no consistency in fit from one product to the next
Because a garment developed outside of a brand's studio rarely fits the firm's standard sample size. The technical designer has to fit the garment, and create new target measurements and a technical flat so that the patternmaker can make a new pattern.
"Commoditizing" a garment design refers to
simplifying the level of detail, uniqueness or fit
lowering the level of detail on the patterns.
Cost estimates are useful for determining whether a garment is suitable for remaining in a line of products.
The basic purpose of specifications is communication with all involved with the product
Body scanning data is only applicable in computerized patternmaking software
Allowable variations from proposed construction standards are known as:
Using offshore patternmakers saves considerable time in the product development cycle.
Open specs provide generic information and basic necessary facts, while allowing the factory to solve problems and meet delivery and standards and still offer competitive cost.
Standards are the characteristics used as the basis of judgments made about products.
A measurement chart is list of target finished garment measurements that guide the patternmaker to create a first pattern
List three sources for obtaining first patterns and samples. Describe the way that the designer prepares information for each source.
In house pattern and sample making: extensive specifications are note needed, turn time is fast
Pattern and sample making services: more complete specs are needed
Full package vendors: design spec is needed, but vendor may complete tech pack themselves
Company standards are established before specifications are written
Using software that was originally developed in the upholstery industry, a designer can now model a product directly onto a three-dimensional image on a screen and a well-fitting, perfectly made pattern will be generated.
The first step in creating a pattern is to take the body measurements.
Specifications are only for communication within the firm. They have to be re-written by government agencies where the goods are produced so that they are accurate for evaluating vendor compliance.
The type of patternmaking service that is the logical choice for a retail private label developer is:
full service contractors
A designer must list all materials with full technical descriptions and sources or the vendor will not know how to make the sample.
Standards for specific fabric care and fiber identification labels are enforced by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC).
Draped patterns are usually reserved for specialty garments because:
They are more costly to produce than flat patterns
It takes a different skill to produce this type than flat patterns
Full-package vendors assume most but not all the responsibility for patternmaking and production.
Computer systems provide capability for real-time access to information by recording operations as they occur.
Which of the following is NOT true about manual marker making?
Manually marker making results in better yields than computer methods.
The complexity of a pattern affects:
Which of the following is NOT true about manual grading of production patterns?
Manual grading can be speeded up by using thin paper that is easier to cut.
The best method for obtaining an original garment is by trace-off.
In-house patternmaking, sample making, and cost estimation are conducted in the same location and same business unit as the marketing and design functions.
Full-package vendors assume most but not all the responsibility for patternmaking and production
Patternmaking processes that allow the most creativity, such as draping or drafting one style at a time, are the most time consuming.
1. Please list five methods for making first patterns for a first sample for a new style.
Specification packages usually begin with:
a sketch of the proposed style
Draping is typically used for garments produced for sale at a higher price point.
Design-driven product development tends to use simpler patterns.
The first step after the creation of the design spec is the creation of a sample size pattern based on target measurements.
A block pattern is the foundation pattern piece that may be used to develop new or more complex styles
Off shore vendors have improved the fit of products sold in the USA because they are more skilled
Specifications form the basis for contracts with suppliers for materials, production capacity, establishment of criteria for maintaining quality standards and evaluating vendor compliance.
Which of the following is NOT true about production patterns produced by the manual method?
Left and right sleeves or fronts do not both need to be cut if they are mirror images of each other.
Pattern drafting systems are universal and once a patternmaker learns the rules, the patterns they make will result in garments that will fit people anywhere in the world
Spec packs or tech packs generally include:
full garment drawing
Which of the following is NOT true about block patterns?
Blocks patterns can only be generated by computer software.
Technical flats are:
Accurate two-dimensional sketches of garments shown as
spread on a flat surface
A good marker uses as little fabric as possible
Sampling is not costly, so product developers are encouraged to make as many samples as they need in order to get the details right before approving a style for production.
The construction methods for a garment are identified:
During the pattern development stage, after the garment has been selected for production
All standards that are used to make decisions about the characteristics of an apparel product are imposed by governmental agencies where the product is produced or sold.
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