5460 exam 1

the Gilded Age
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Aaron Montgomery WardWith the foundation of which company did mail order catalogs take off?Aaron Montgomery Ward Richard Warren SearsWhat were the two largest men in mail order companies?Charles Frederick WorthWho was the father of haute couture?fashion periodicals celebrities socialites the arts haute coutureWhat were the fashion influences of the Gilded Age?theater opera vaudevilleIn what lights were celebrities found during the Gilded Age?American Dollar PrincessesAmerican women with a large amount of money, but no title; money made from the industrial revolutionart nouveauart movement most popular from 1890-1910flax/linen cotton wool silkWhat four fibers were used in fashion from the late 19th century through the 1920s?-1870-1890 -bustle was the predominant feature of women's dressesDescribe the Bustle Period-earliest bustle -sheath/cuirass -shelf bustleWhat are the 3 different bustle shapes?earliest bustle (1870-1878)bustle pulled tight to back, waterfalling skirtsheath/cuirassbustle drops to fullness below back of kneesshelf bustlerigid, shelflike bustle that rarely had a train-wide use of sewing machines -development of sized paper patterns -rotary cuttersWhat changes are seen in apparel technology during the Gilded Age?-pressure on regulated event clothing (funerals, etc.) -bustle and curved silhouette -"S" shape -high, boned collars -bishop sleeves -narrow waist, and decorative beltWhat were the characteristics of Edwardian dress?-first female house in Paris -started with pastels and moved to bolder colors -branch in London -first to send models dressed in clothing into the public -worked with illustrators and architects and for theaterJeanne Paquin-run by four sisters (one died) -considered the safeguards for haute couture -Henri Bendel was the largest buyer of the brand in New York -told couturiers to date their tags to prevent knock-offs -no repeating patternsCallot Souers-started as a British tailor -credited with making tailored suits more popular and fashionable for women -dressed Edward VII's wifeJohn Redfern-intuitive businesswoman -started by sewing clothes for her sister and daughter -had a very successful perfume -rival of Charles WorthJeanne Lanvin-first large British designer -very good at public relations -survived the Titanic -first to use mannequins -first runway show -customer research -licensing effort with Sears -very aware of American audienceLucile (Lady Duff Gordon)-"Delphos" most famous dress, made of one piece of fabric -worked with natural dyes -inspired by Ancient Greece -made huge innovations in treatment of fabricsMario FortunyEsteeWho was the most important fashion illustrator in the 1900s-1920sHarper's Bazaar Vogue Vanity FairWho were the large names in fashion publishing at this time?-like most fashion publications, there was a focus on French fashion -featured Vogue originals ---featured make at home patternsWhat was the content of Vogue during this time?-early expansion of chain stores (JCPenney) -five and dime self service stores -price zone and product options (Loehmann's and Filene's Basement) -familiar names in specialty areas (Nordstrom and Lane Bryant)What contributed to the growing range of retail formats?-clothing became more practical and less encumbering (less corsets) -women take on more tasks usually done by men, and their clothing needs to be wearable for these tasks -dresses become shorter and fuller -military influence was evident in clothing -suits became more popular -production on corsets slowed heavily because metal was being reserved for war production -because of shorter hemlines, there is a heavier emphasis on shoesWhat influences did WWI have on clothing?bomber jacket trench coat wristwatchWhat are some fashion items that became popular (and remain popular) as a product of military influence of WWI?woolWhat were most bathing suits made of during this time?union suitone-piece underwear worn by women, men, and childrenshirt necktie vest jacket trousersWhat were the elements of a men's suit?sack suit jacket (loose fitting, hits below hip; referred to as "lounge coats" by Brits)What was the most popular style of suit jacket for men during the 1910s?