Chapter 7: Findings and Trims

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Terms in this set (...)

Findings
all components besides the actual fashion fabric, trims, labels, threads, elastics, underlying fabrics, zippers, buttons, closures
Trims
sub-division of findings, decorative materials, ribbon, braids, lace, appliques, sequins
Findings Include:
support materials, closures, thread, elastics, labels
Support Materials
include interfacing, interlinings, lining, and support devices. Most garments contain at least one of these components to foster shape retention and durability.
Interfacing
an extra layer of supporting fabric.
Common areas for interfacing
collars, cuffs, button holes, pocket openings, waistbands
Facts about Interfacing
support fabric hidden between garment and its facing, withstand same wear and care as the garment, structured by woven, knit, or nonwoven fabrics
Woven Interfacing
tends to be strong, does not stretch, must be cut on the grain, cane be more costly than other types of fabrics
Knit Interfacing
tens to stretch and are softer in shape and drape, does not ravel but curls, costs less than woven
Nonwoven Interfacing
the most common type, lends good stability, does not have a grain, and is least costly, not very drapeable and tends to pill
Fusible Interfacings
the most common type, heat sensitive adhesive on one side, slightly stiffer than sew-in interfacing, but adhesives can strike through
Strike through
=show on the surface
Sew-in Interfacing
stitched to a facing before the facing is applied, inserted directly to the underside as seams are constructed
Interlining
used for additional warmth and stability in the garment, examples: thinsulate, polyester fleece, down or lamb's wool
Lining
a lightweight fabric that gives a finished appearance to the interior, makes garment more comfortable, helps wearing slide in and out of garment with ease, contribute to shape and support, provides opacity to sheer garments, provide additional warmth
Underlining
outer shell of fabric and the lining are layered together before the garment is constructed, stabilizes shell fabrics, makes the shell fabric opaque, hide seam allowances in sheer and lace fabrics, fabrics are typically not slippery as those used for linings
Shoulder pads
used in tailored jackets, coats, dresses and blouses, made of molded foam, layers of cotton or wool wadding, polyester fiberfill
Sleeve Headers
folded narrow strips of bias cut lambs' wool, tailors canvas, or fiber fill, sewn into the sleeve cap of tailored coats and jackets to create a soft roll in the cap of the sleeve
Boning
used in the bodice bras, corsets, or strapless dresses, can be made of steel, plastic, or polyester rigiline
Seam Tapes
narrow woven strips of fabric, similar to ribbon, can be used to stabilize the shoulder seam on a knit top or to establish the roll line of a jacket lapel
Bra Cups
often added to garments such as swimsuits, and strapless evening gowns to provide shape and support to the bustline, usually made of fiberfill or foam
Closures
fastenings that allow access to the garment and adjust to the fit of the garment, can also contribute to aesthetic appeal, must be tested thouroughly to prevent potential failures, often purchased by the gross
Gross
12 dozen
Closures Examples
button and button holes or loops, zippers, snaps, hooks and eyes, miscellaneous
Buttons
usually both functional and decorative, plastic buttons are the least costly, natural buttons are rarely used, self covered buttons are covered with fabric, mostly made of nylon, polyester, metal, wood, animal horn, rubber and shell
Eyes
more casual, 2 or 4 eyes
Shank
cost more, stem on back of button, bulkier
Buttons attach to garments with?
holes, called eyes, or loops called shanks, button size is measured in lignes
Loops
tubes or fabric of thread used instead of buttonholes or securing buttons during wear
Frogs
decorative coiled cording used to replace traditional buttons and button holes
Toggle
a pair of cord loops secured by a rod
Zippers
cont. closures developed for use in garments, best used in flat areas, curved rather than in curved seams, over folds, or over gathers, zipper chains or teeth may be made of metal, plastic, or nylon
Snaps
fasteners that are sewn on or mechanically attached
Sew on snaps
for light-weight to medium-weight garments, ideal for areas that do not encounter much stress, most are made of metal
Mechanically attached snaps
for medium to heavyweight casual garments, ideal for jeans, western wear, and infant and toddler pants' inseams
Snap Tape
a strip of fabric, often twill tape, with mechanically attached snaps
Hooks and Eyes
consist of a type of hook and a receptacle for the hook, hold up well under strain, so they are used in places where other closures might give away
Belts
hold garments together or in place, provide a decorative finish to garment styles, styling includes: straight, tie, string, contoured
thread
a strong slender form of yarn used for stitching in garments, used for decorative effects such as embroidery, and top stitching, thread types, thread color, thread strength is critical to the durability of stitches and seams but never stronger than fabric
Spun thread
made of staple fibers that are twisted together, may be made of cotton or synthetic fibers, strong and elastic
Corespun thread
built with a spun nylon or polyester core that is then wrapped with a staple fiber, used extensively in garments made of woven fabrics, one of the more expensive forms of thread
monofilament thread
made of a single strand or a fiber and is very strong, inexpensive and transparent in color, stiff and slippery, typically used only in lower-priced garments or hems
Multifilament Thread
made of several filaments twisted together, if textured on the surface it will not slip
elastics
defined by the ability to repeadtedly stretch and return to its original size, used to shape garments and hold them close to the body, made of rubber or spandex fibers covered with polyester,cotton or another fiber, the structure may be woven, knitted, or braided
Labels
printed or woven attachments to garments that provide written information to the consumer
Nonwoven Labels
paper labels, printed and frequently used on casual and lower priced clothing
Woven Labels
most costly, and require the longest lead time, but they are also the most durable and create a high quality impression
Government Requirements on Labels
generic fiber content, producer's identification, country of origin, location, care instructions
Brand Labels
usually large, colorful, and affixed in a prominent location, they help the consumer quickly identify the product
Flat Labels
strips of narrow fabric in three styles, finished on two edges and heat sealed on the others, cut on two ends and folded under, ironed on or fused
Folded loop label
longer flat label with ends folded diagonally to the underside that can be sewn into the seam
Folded label
a flat piece folded in half sew directly into the seam or attached to the edge of another label, usually printed and is often nonwoven
Heat Transfer Label Style
most frequently found on knit shirts, undergarments, and socks, will satisfy some garment's requirements, remains visible throughout the useful life of the garment
Trims
decorative materials or surface treatments that embellish a garment and add distinctiveness
Linear Trims
decorative edgings, decorative seams
Narrow Fabric Trims
ribbons, passementerie, laces
Surface Embellishments
embroidery, appliques, screen printing
Decorative Edgings
ruffles, flounces, smocking
Linear Trims
lintes on the surface or edges of garment
Surface Stitching
top stiching, edge stitching, hemstitching
Seam edgings
piping, cording, overlock stitching, picot edging, lettuce edging
Narrow fabric trims
flat varieties are used for straight lines, braids and gathered laces can be used in straight or curved applications,
Piping
a narrow folded strip of fabric
Seam tape or hem tape
a smooth ribbon like fabric used to trim interior seam and hem edges
Fringe
trim with dangling yarns
Ribbon
a narrow woven fabric with finished edges
Gimp Braid
more decorative and heavier than a soutache or middy braid, made of cord
Rickrack
a woven zig zag trim available in several widths
Fold over braid
knit or woven trim with a built in crease to allow encasing a garment edge, such as on a boiled wool jacket
lace
an openwork trim or fabric that is made into intricate designs by the intertwining of threads
Surface Embellishments
appliques, embroidery, screen printing
Appliques
surface decorations formed by thread, fabric, or nonfabric materials such as grommets, sequins, and beads
Embroidery
trim formed by making thread patterns on the surface of the garment
Printed Motifs
a printed design applied to an area of a garment, may be applied via screen printing, heat transfer printing, or computerized digital printing methods
Decorative details
ruffles, flounces, smocking
Ruffles
strips of fabric gathered to add fullness and enhance an area such as a hem or a sleeve
Flounces
similar to ruffles but constructed from circular cuts rather than straight or bias cut strips
Jabot
a cascade of fabric down the front of a blouse
Tiers
ruffles build into stair-step layers
Smocking
a section of fabric pulled into a smaller area by making many tiny parallel tucks and secured in place with decorative embroidery, the traditional tirm of children's wear, may be achieved by hand or machine