Chapter 10: Facials

Skin Analysis: Cheeks
-dehydration and amt of elasticity: gently press cheek
-eval. pore size, breakouts, and clogging on inner cheek: skin type
-dilated capillaries and redness: sensitivity or rosacea
-sunspots, freckles, uneven skin tone: premature aging
designed to provide skin w neccessary and desired benefits.
Dry Skin
-lacks adequate sebum production
-heightened sensitivity
-prone to fine lines/wrinkles
-small pores
-appears thin and delicate
Modeling Mask
delivers beneficiak ingredients
Skin Analysis: Chin
look for excess sebum and clogged pores/congestion
4 steps of daily care
1. Cleansing
2. Toning
3. Moisturizing
4. Protecting
Gel Mask
Calms and soothes
Contraindications for Massage
-skin conditions like redness, swelling, pus, bruising and/or broken or scraped skin
-high blood pressure
-heart condition
-previous stroke
Combination Skin
- displays both dry AND oily areas
-most common skin type
-possible larger pores in T-zone
systematic, theraputic method of manipulsting the face/body bh kneading, pinching, rubbing, tappung, or stoking w hands, fingers, or other instruments.
Crème Masks (purpose, content and type)
purpose: provide rich nutrients to skin lacking sufficient sebum
content: rich in moisturizers, humectants, and other nutrient-rich ingredients, such as vitamins.
type: Dry skin
chemical exfoliant
removes dead skin cells by using enzymes or alpha hydroxy acids
Skin Analysis: Eyes
-puffiness and dark shadows: poor circulation
-fine lines/wrinkles: premature aging
-clogged pores and milia
high frequency
creates thermal current (heat producing) and is germicidal
-basic movement of massage
-often begins and ends massages
-light, relaxing, smooth, gentle, stroking or circular movement
-soothes muscles and relaxes the sensory nerve endings at surface of skin
-light/heavy kneading, pinching, and rolling of the muscles
- deeply stimulates the muscles, nerves, and skin glands which increases blood and lymph circulation.
-most important of movements
Crème Mask
hydrates and moisturizes
UVA/UVB Blockers
block the suns rays by reflecting them off the surface of the skin. examples: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.
Skin Analysis: Forehead
-pore size and breakouts: skin types
-wrinkles, freckles, and sunspots: premature aging and sun damage
5 General Categories of Skin Types
1. Normal
2. Dry
3. Oily
4. Combination
5. Mature/Aging
5 Basic Movement of Massage
1. Effleurage
2. Petrissage
3. Tapotement
4. Friction
5. Vibration
-skin condtition
-fine dialated capillaries
-frequently on cheeks and nose
-often cuased by harsh skin products, extreme temperatures, or trauma to skin
Wood's Lamp
-allows analysis of akin surface and layers to aid in determining treatment
-different colors indicate different conditions
Cleansing Crème
removes impurities from skin
Paraffin Mask
Increases circulation; promotes product penetrstion
Skin Analysis: Nose
-excess sebum and clogging on inner sides and tip
-dilsted capillaries on inner corners
-basic massage movement
- shaking movement performed by shaking arms quickly as fingers/palms touch client
manual exfoliant
granule product the removes dead skin cells by manipulating the skin's surface: facial scrub
Facial Steamer
-mist expands pores for cleansing
-softens dead skin cells for easier removal
-increases blood circulation (makes blood vessels expand)
improves cell metabolism
% of cell renewal during sleep
skin cells renew 30% faster than when awake.
assists in cleansing and brings normal-dry skin back to normal pH
-circular or wringing movements with no glide
-pefformed with fingertips or palm
-moves skin across muscle or bone beneath it
- 2 types: chucking and wringing
- stimulates and warms muscles, increases circulstion, and promotes sebacious gland activity
a.k.a. Percussion
-basic movement of massage
- light tapping or slapping movement applied with fingertips or partly flexed fingers
- increases blood circulation, stimulates nerves, and primotes muscle contraction
-most stimulating (not for "relaxing" massage)
-used for shortest period of time
- also assists skin in releasing CO2 and waste material
-not good for sensitive or certain skin conditions (acne, rosacea, etc.)
Clay/Mud Mask
absorbs excess oil; tightens and refines pores; prevents clogging
hydrates and protects the skin
a.k.a. Sun Protection Factor
protects the skin from UVA & UVB rays projected from the sun.
SPF# represents the time that an individual can be exposed to the sun before skin starts to burn. Ex: SPF 15 means one can stay in the sun 15 times longer than with out sunscreen.
Jacquet Movements
- created by Dr. Jacquet: French Dermatologist
- for oily and acneic skin conditions
- gentle kneading and twist pinching movements
-meant to force excess sebum from pores
- best used on jawline and base of chin
2 major benefits of massage
increased circulation and renewed flexibility
assists in cleansing akin and returns oily-normal skin back to pH
Skin Analysis: Entire Face
-age spots, sun spots, freckles, and moles: document color, shape, border eveness, and size. keep track for future reference
-T-Zone commonly overly sebaceous and/or clogged: , forehead, nose and chin
chemical exfoliant
consists of enzymes, alpha hydroxy acid, as well as other natural ingredients to cause chemical rxn that removes dead skin cells.
Galvanic Current
low-level direct current that forces water-soluble prodect deep into epidermis
Oily Skin
-excess sebum production
-thick and shiny
-larger pore size
prone to breakouts and clogged areas
-less likely to display fine lines/wrinkles
-skin condition
-lack of moisture
-superficial dryness, flakiness, and lines
-oily skin CAN be dehydrated
-generally caused by improper product use and enviromental influences
Massage crème/oil
reduces friction and provides slip during massage
Multi-F(x) Machine
4 or more electrical treatment options: steamer, vacuum or suction option, toner spray, and rotating brush
-optional/additionsl attachments may include Galvanic Current, High Frequency, infrared or Wood's Lamp
Skin Analysis: Mouth
-note hyperpigmentation: primarily upper lip
-wrinkes and fine lines on corners: natural aging
-wrinkles and fine lines around mouth: premature againg (smoking)
Gel Masks (content, purpose and type)
purpose: many purposes! generally used for "cool gel feel", but has many types and purooses. can have antibacterial and gel consistency prevents clogging and greasy feel.
content: always gel-like substance, but can have many dofferent ingredients: botanicals, antibacterial, ingredients meant to calm and soothe skin.
type: ALL skin types
Modeling Masks (purpose, content and type)
purpose: deliversntonskin benefits from mask nutrients, as well as seal skin, locking in moisture and creating firm, taut feel.
content: collagen, elastin, lactic acid, and other beneficial additives
type: ALL skin tyoes deoending on mask ingredients.
1st step in facial car regimen. specifically designed to remove dirt, oil, makeup, and enviromental pollutanys from surface of skin.
Paraffin masks (purpose, content, and type)
purpose: warmth ofnwax increases circulation and promotes penetrition of nutrients or ingredients applied underneath it. No medicinal purpose on its own!
content: paraffin wax
type: dry, mature skin types
-skin condition
-caused by overactive sebacieus glands
-blackheads, whiteheads, papules, and pustules
-internal changes in body expressed on skin (hormones)
7 Benefits of Massage:
1.increased circulation of blood supply to skin
2. tighter, firmer muscles
3. stimulation of glandular activities of skin
4. stronger muscle tissue
5. relief from pain
6. softer, improved texture and complexion of skin
7. releif of emotional stress and body tension
Assists in preventing growth of bacteria on skin
used to replenish and balance moisture and oil as well as protect the skin
Normal Skin
-sufficient moisture and sebum production
-few breakouts or clogged areas
-small pores that may be medium sized throught T-zone area
% of wrinkles caused by sun damage
90% (10% by natural aging process)
a.k.a. Tonics or Skin Refiners
helps to further cleanse skin while returning it to its proper pH.
Clay/Mud Masks (purpose, content and type)
Content: rich in minerals, clay, ans mud from earth
Purpose: to absorb excess oil, tighten and refine pores, and aid in proventing clogging.
Type: oily, acneic types (not dry)
term given to name actual action or movement performed during massage treatment.
-to be used once/twice a week to remove superficial dead cells
-allows for deeper cleansing of pores, increases moisture retention and circulation, and smooths the skin.
- 2 types: manual & chemical
- skin condition
- vascular disorder
- flushed redness, dilated capillaries, and sm red bumps
-ages 30-40
-aggravating factors: alcohol, stress, spicy foods, amd extreme temps
UVA/UVB absorbers
ingredients that absorb the skin's rays and deflect them throught out the layers of skin. example: methoxycinnamate.
Mature Aging
-loose, thin, crepe-like skin
-apparent fine lines and wrinkles
-lacks elasticity and firmness
-natural aging--> increased dryness
- sun/enviroment exposure--> premature aging
Contraindications: With Equipment
heart condition, pacemaker, pregnancy, joint replacement, prosthetic, metal plates, or pins, epilepsy, and/or diabetes.
Contraindications: WithOut Equipment
skin conditions with redness, swelling, pus, open lesions and/or active old sores, or any contagious disease.
the liquification of sebum with highly alkaline solution (used for desincrustation).
Facial w/ Multi-F(x) Machine
-4-8 attachments
-rotating brush (exfoliant), steamer, vacuum (before/after extractions), and toner.
Facial w/ Galvanic/Desincrustation
-utilized in conjunction with alkaline solution to force solution deep into skin==> Saponification
Facial w/ Galvanic/Iontophoresis Procedure
--utilizes Galvanic Current to penetrate nourishing, hydrating, and firming ingredients deep into the skin.
Facial w/ Indirect High Frequency
Indirect High Frequency Current is used during the massage steps to amplify effects of manipulations for relaxation or stimulation.
Facial w/ Direct High Frequency
-treatment delivers antibacterial and drying benefits to the skin.