93 terms

History of costume

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Draped dress
Draped dress is created by the arrangement around the body of pieces of fabric that are folded, pleated, pinned, or belted in different ways. Usually worn in warmer climates
Tailored Dress
use of skins or leather likely led to the development of tailored dress pieces are cut and sewn together.
They fit the body more closely and provide greater warmth than do draped garments.
More likely to be worn in cool climates
theme
reoccurring or unifying subject or idea
4 motivations for wearing clothes
protection, modesty, status, decoration
breeching
5-6 year old boy given first pair of breeches to designate age
sumptuary laws
restricted the use of or on luxury goods
mixtures
As cultures come into contact, there is a reciprocal exchange of new ideas, resulting in styles that are MIXTURES
cultural authentication
process "whereby elements of dress of one culture are incorporated into the dress of another." Usually the culturally authenticated style is changed in some way. Only rarely are entire garments adopted
zeitgeist
spirit of the times
fashion
taste shared by many for a short period of time
fashion system
20th century mass produced clothing complex industry textile, design, manufacturing, retail
folk costume
dress of the european peasant class (ethnic costume, traditional costume)
fibula
Fastening was required. Archeologists call the pin that was used in holding a garment together, fibula, a word that is Roman in origin.
loincloth
length of cloth wrapped to cover the genitals
skirt
began at waist or slightly below and hung loosely around body (worn by men and women, length varied, servant wore shorter royalty wore longer Held with wide belt Women exposed breasts Can be dyed colors)At first, skirts were probably made from sheepskin. Later, woven cloth had fringe at the bottom.
tunics
simple one-piece T-shaped garments with openings for head and arms covered torso and made different lengths could be adorned with fringe men and women
shawls
Coverage and modesty
Rectangular squares of oval fabrics combined with skirts, tunics
cloaks
large squares of fabric tied or pinned at neck like modern cape (outdoor covering) weather protection animal skins, leather or heavy felted cloth covered upper body
veils
small rectangles worn to cover head and sometimes part of body almost exclusively women Legal code referring women to wear veils' Distinguish free woman from married woman Slaves and prostitutes couldn't wear
kaunakes
Greek, skirt, fleece or fleece-like fabric, wool abundant
chignon
men and women, pull hair at back neck and hold with fillet
fillet
headband
Later Sumerian and Babylonia: 2500-1000 BC styles
evolved slowly. Move complex. Gender differences.
Women's dress now covers upper body.
Kaunakes garment becomes associated with religious figures
mens hair Meso/Baby/Assyr
Before 2300 BC, men are shown both clean-shaven and with beards. Later men with beards. King has longest beard False section added
fez / tarbush
high brimless hat Arab style worn in southwest Asia northern Africa shaped like truncated cone. broad bands fabric back King higher
jewelry
Earrings, bracelets, and armlets were worn to reflect pattern on fabrics.
Most Egyptian garments were woven from
linen (flax plant)
The undermost garment was a
loin cloth
schenti, shent, skent, or schent, kilt
Egyptian wrapped skirt, varied length
Egyptian skirt length
Old Kingdom: knee length or shorter, and fitted closely around the hips.
Middle Kingdom: The skirt elongated, with shorter versions for work.
New Kingdom: Skirts gain pleats. Longer skirts are quite full.
Aprons
worn over a skirt. Large, triangular decorative panels are located at the front of some skirts.
scarab
symbol of beetle sun god and rebirth
uraeus
sacred cobra , lower egypt (vulture upper)
eye of Horus
human eye style symbol moon
mordants
fix for dying linen
pectorals
decorative pendants
corselet
another type of upper body covering, wrapped around torso sleeveless, strapless or suspended by small shoulder straps
locke of youth (Horus)
Young people wore hair shaved except on left side grow and braided
kalasiris or calasiris
New Kingdom, men and women wore tunics
sheath dress
closely fitted garment worn by women Draped one shoulder Ornamentation worn on top
Egyptian hair
Many Egyptians had shaved heads.. Beards were a symbol of power, and both male and female pharaohs wore a small false beard.
Egyptian makeup
Worn by men and women Henna lips (red dye) and nail paint Eye paint men and women - eye of God and sun protection (kohl black lead replaced green)
diadems
crowns hold flowers egyptian
amulets
charms worn around neck ward off evil
perizoma (Greek)
The loincloth was an undergarment for men, but was worn by male and female athletes.
A Dark Age
little is known, preceded the Archaic Period (c.800-500 BC). By the end of the dark age, men and women were wearing a type of tunic.
sacred peplos
Athena honor patterned garment
doric peplos, (archaic period)
is closely fitted, with an over fold, probably made of wool.
chitoniskos
A similar peplos short tunic worn by men
fulling
wool fabric washed and shrunk to produce dense close weave
chiton
The Greek name for the tunic, was wrapped around the body, and pinned at the shoulder and down the arm.
exomis
The tunic for the working man was simple
himation
Worn by both men and women, wrapped shawl that left one arm uncovered.(chlaina earlier term)
diplax
small rectangle fabric worn by women draped like himation
chlamydon
complicated diplax fabric pleated into band
chlamys
cloak leather or wool pinned over shoulder worn for weather protection
petasos
usually worn with chlamys, wide brim, summer shade rain off
Phrygian bonnets
not Greek style, brimless cap with high padded peak fell forward
pilos
men and women, narrow brimmed brimless hat with pointed crown
swaddling clothes
infants wrapped bands fabric against body
Hercules knot
bride wore belt tied with double knot
stephane
bridal crown
anakalypteria
unveiling bride
nymphides
sandals for wedding Greek
chlanis
tunic presented to groom woven by bride
Greaves
shaped leather or metal protectors for lower legs
Empire waist
belting dress high under bustline
Etruscans
Italian culture near Venice
tabenna
rounded mantle worn by men and women (before toga) Woman's wrap with long hanging tabs. Man's wrap draped to the front.wrapped like the Himation. draped to the front
toga
draped elliptically shaped mantle evolved from tabenna males citizen wore
clavi/clavus
broad purple bands extended vertically from hem to hem across shoulders
Eutrscan shoes
pointed toe
tutulus
womens hat
subligar
Men wore a loincloth, under a tunic. When it was cold men wore several tunics. Latin for loincloth middle and upper class and working garment for slaves
sinus
overfold of imperial toga
umbo
knob clump fabric hold drapery now decorative
gynaeceum
workshop of slaves producing cloth
Frescoes
paintings on plaster
toga praetexta
purple boarders
toga virilis
white toga
balteus
belt eliminated umbo (toga w/ folded bands evolved)
pallium
evolved form of Greek himation
paenula
heavy wool cloak semicircular close front hood
lacerna
rectangular rounded corners and hood
laena
circle of cloth folded to semicircle thrown over shoulders and pinned front
birrus burrus
modern hooded poncho
paludamentum
large white or purple cloak worn by emporers or generals
strophium
band of fabric supported breasts
palla
draped shawl placed over outer tunic
stola
free married women
instita
distinctive dress of Roman matron
vitta
woolen band bind hair
bulla
locket charms against evil eye
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