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waves quiz

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crest
highest part of wave
trough
lowest part of wave
wave height
vertical distance between trough and crest
period
time a wave takes to go by any given point
wavelength
distance between wave crests or troughs
wind speed
increases size of waves
wind duration
increases size of waves
fetch
span of open water over which the wind blows
deep water waves
depth greater than 1/2 wavelength, ideal shape, offshore, dont break
shallow water waves
depth less than 1/2 wavelength, friction causes shape to change, drag on bottom, break on beach
wave energy translated onto beaches, which causes
erosion, accretion
swash
water rushing onto beach
backwash
water rushing off beach
factors affecting wind wave size
wind velocity, wind duration, fetch, state of sea
biologcal significance
aeration, erosion/accretion, habitat changes
high energy means
large particle
low energy means
small particles
3 types of breaking waves
plunging breakers, spilling breakers, surging breakers
plunging breakers
moderately sloped beach, wave curls forming tube, good surfing waves
spilling breakers
gentle slope, wave breaks slowly over long distance, crest spills over front of wave; Gulf of Mexico
surging breakers
steep slope, breaks/rolls right onto beach, destructive
what wave type is in SC
plunging breakers