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Perm & Relax - Pivot Point

Terms in this set (137)

Overlap Method
In 1926, the croquignole method of wrapping hair from the ends to the scalp was created. What is another name for this wrapping method?
1938
In what year was the first cold wave created?
Long
What length of hair was Charles Nessler's heat permanent waving machine suitable for?
Thioglycolic acid or a derivative
What was the active ingredient used in the first cold wave?
Both are equally important
Which phase of perming is the most important?
Texture placement
Positioning texture in one or more specific areas or zones of the head, or along only a certain portion of the hairstrand is called:
Undulating waves and curls
The overlap (croquignole) technique produces which result?
Spiral and overlap
What are the two basic wrapping techniques for rotating strands around a perm tool?
Medium to long
What length of hair s the spiral technique most often used on?
Perm pattern
What term refers to the way perm tools are arranged around the client's head white wrapping?
All of the above - along the strand, texture within zones, throughout an entire compassion
You can apply the design principles of repetition, alteration, progression and contrast:
Partial perms
Zonal perms are also called:
The illusion of shorter length is created
As added texture expands the form:
8.0 - 9.5
Alkaline perms carry a pH of:
Heat
In addition to tension and perm solution, what do acid perms use to perform the processing action?
Disulfide bonds
What structure must be permanently broken to change the hair from straight to curly state?
Strong curl pattern
Which of the following statements is true about alkaline perms?
Perm rod
Which perm tool determines the size and shape of the new curl texture?
Wrapping hair around the perm tool
The chemical phase of perming involves all the following, EXCEPT:
Off base
The four basic tool positions in perming are on base, half-base, underdirected and:
Density
The hair characteristics to assess in a pre-perm analysis are porosity, elasticity, texture and:
Croquignole
The method of wrapping hair from the end to the scalp is known as:
Base control
The size of the base and the angle at which the hair is held while wrapping determines the tool position or:
Weaken the curl formation
Water left in end papers after rinsing the perm solution will dilute the neutralizer and:
One end paper folded in half
Which of the following descriptions identifies the boookend technique for end-paper placement?
Arnold F. Willatt
Who created the first cold wave perm?
Towels
Draping at the beginning of a perm service should include a plastic cape and:
Opens the cuticle and swells the hair
What does perm solution do?
Rebounds hair into it's new configuration
What is Neutralizer?
For perm & color is to open the cuticle so the solution and the color molecules to penetrated into the cortex
What is the purpose of Ammonia?
Legal information
The client record houses the following information, EXCEPT:
Alkaline wave
What is the strongest perm?
Protective cream
What is applied to a client's hairline prior to the chemical phase of the perm service?
Madam C.J. Walker
In the early 1900's, the temporary method of hair relaxing was invented by:
0.85
It is not recommended to remove more than what percentage of the hair's natural texture?
14
What is the PH of early relaxer products?
Both are equally important
Which phase of relaxing is the most important?
Sodium hydroxide
Which relaxer ingredient requires the use of a base cream on the scalp to prevent irritation?
Sodium hydroxide
A salon professional should never use an ammonium thioglycolate product on a client's hair if it has been previously treated with:
Soften
Ammonium thioglycolate is a chemical reducing agent that causes the hair to:
Heavy
Relaxer strengths for ammonium thioglycolate are categorized as all of the following, EXCEPT:
Tightly curled
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are generally used on which type of hair?
11.5 - 14
Sodium hydroxide relaxers have a pH of:
Porosity
The hair's ability to absorb moisture, liquids or chemicals is known as:
Base cream
What protects the hairline, ears and scalp from chemical irritation?
Mild
Which chemical relaxer strength is safe to use on color-treated hair?
Curly
Which of the following texture patterns is associated with an elliptical follicle?
Tightly curled
Sodium hydroxide relaxers are generally used on what type of hair?
A chemical texture service that involves the process of using physical and chemical actions to permanently change the texture of hair
What is a perm?
1. To add volume, texture, and style support to flat, limp hair
2. To add textural interest in selected areas or throughout the head
3. The Hague the option of wearing their hair straight or textured
What 3 reasons dose a client request a perm?
Towels
Draping for a relaxer service should include a cape and:
Charles Nessler in 1905
Who made the first real breakthrough for perms?
Under heat (hooded dryer)
Endothermic means what?
Heat perm
Acid perm is also knows as what?
Highly porous
Acid perms are recommended for what type of hair?
Without tension (minimal stretch gin or training of the hair)
How should alkaline perms be wrapped?
Abrasions
During the scalp analysis, prior to a relaxer, check for any cuts, bruises, sores and:
Applied to break disqualified bonds and soften protein structure: allows the protein chains to assume shape of perm rod
What is the purpose of perm solution in the chemical phase?
Towels
Draping for a relaxer service should include a cape and:
Perm solutions (reducing agent) and neutralizer (oxidizing agent)
What are the 2 chemicals used during the chemical phase?
Ammonium thioglycolate
Alkaline waves are currently formulated with thioglycolic acid or its derivatives and ammonia which creates what?
Right away
When does the hair start to process once the solution is applied?
mechanical phase
Physical phase also refers to?
Overlap and spiral
What re the two basic wrapping techniques for rotating strands of hair around a perm tool?
Abrasions
During the scalp analysis, prior to a relaxer, check for any cuts, bruises , sores and:
Potassium
Which ingredient is not one of the main ingredients found in neutralizers?
6.9 - 7.2
Acid waves have a pH of?
20%
Normal dry hair is capable of being stretched to what percentage of its length?
Pre-Wrap Product
To equalize the porosity of highly porous hair it may be necessary to use which of the following products
2 (needs to be 2x larger than the original curl)
When performing a curl reformation service the perm tool diameter chosen is generally what size?
Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH)
If curl reforming is desired make sure the hair hair not been treated with:
Activator
Helps form and shape new curl pattern
Lack of moisture content
Extreme breakage after relaxer may be caused by
Ammonia thioglycolate (ATG)
Main ingredient in rearrangers
Super for fine hair
Rearrangers match type hair except
0.85
Recommended that not more than what percentage is removed from the natural hair
11.5 - 14
Sodium hydroxide relaxers have a pH of:
Bookend, single, double
3 perm wrap techniques
Potential Hydrogen
pH
Reform curl/Stop processing
What does a neutralizer do?
overnight - perm
When is bisulfate used?
50% of the natural hair strand
What is curl diffusion or blowout?
Madam C J Walker / Sarah Breedlove
Inventor of hair presser
pH of early relaxers
14
Disulfide, hydrogen, salt
Name 3 side bonds in the hair:
Help determine how your clients hair will react to a perm
Why do we do a preliminary test curl?
3-6 months
How long does a digital perm last?
To remove excess moisture
Why do you blot the hair after rinsing a perm solution out?
The placement of the wrapped perm rod in relation to its base
What is tool placement?
Is the tool position that creates the most volume
On base
The perm rod will be positioned half on its base and half off its base, directly on the lower parting
Half-off base
Requires a base of a least 1 1/2x and positions the rod in the lower half of the base. Moderate base lift
Underdircted
Rinse and blot thoroughly
What do you do when using multiple papers for perm rods?
1 1/2-2 turns of the rod
To check a perm rod, how much to do you unwind?
Is used only where you want a minimal degree of volume or base lift.
Off base
Croquinole
Overlap wrap - another name
Chemical Physical
Perm phases
Carbon, Oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, sulfur
COHNS
4.5 - 5.5
pH of hair, skin and nails
Two
How many processes are involved when performing a curl reformation?
Booster
During a curl reformation service, what causes the hair to soften and swell in order to reform it into a new curl or wave pattern?
Curl Arranger
What is the name of the product used to reduce the curl pattern?
Ammonia Thioglycolate
What is the main ingredient in curl booster?
Neither Service
Which curl reformation service can be performed over hair relaxed with sodium hydroxide-based product?
Sodium hydroxide relaxer
Never perform a curl service on hair that has been relaxed with:
Once
Only shampoo the clients hair _______ prior to a curl reformation service to avoid desensitizing the scalp.
Section, apply curl re-arranger, smooth, section and wrap, apply curl booster, and neutralize
Steps that are performed within a curl reformation service are:
Stabilizers or picks
Holds perm rods in position.
Retouch/Virgin Retouch Sodium Hydroxide Relaxer
Section, apply, comb or smooth, text, neutralize
Virgin Retouch Sodium Hydroxide Relaxer
1/4" (.6 cm) to 1/2" (1.25 cm) horizontal partings - dabbing motions without rubbing scalp (application)
Retouch Sodium Hydroxide Relaxer
1/4" (.6 cm) horizontal partings - dabbing motions without rubbing scalp (application)
Virgin Thio Relaxer
Shampoo hair but do not condition
Elasticity
What is the most important thing in hair that is needed for a perm?
Cold waves
Alkaline perms are also known as?
yes
Do alkaline perms process faster than acid perms?
Pre-perm analysis
What must you do before any perm service?
Finger test
The porosity test is also known as?
stronger alkaline solution
What does resistant hair require for a perm solution?
The pull test
The elasticity test is also known as what?
Proper perm formula & size of perm tool or rod
In texture what must you consider?
twice
In overlap technique how many times does the hair overlap the rod?
Defined by the base's length and width
What is base size?
Creates uneven curl pattern
If the base is larger than the length of rod what happens?
two
How many steps in permanent waving?
Presence of cross bonds or links, however that gives the ability to change the form of hair either temporarily or permanently
What is cross-bond?
1. Sulfur bonds (disulfide)
2. Hydrogen bonds
3. Salt bonds
What 3 types of cross bonds are of major concern?
hydrogen bond
What bonds can be broken with water/chemicals?
salt bonds
What bonds are broken by solutions and ph?
Salt bonds
What bonds are broken by strong chemicals
Which relaxer ingredient requires the use of a base cream on the scalp to prevent irritation?
sodium hydroxide
Ammonium thioglycolate is a chemical agent that causes hair to?
Soften
20 minutes
This relaxer timing for regular strenght is?
Tightly curled to coarse -texture hair
Thio relaxer timing for for super strength is what type of hair?
two
How man processes are involved when performing a curl reformation?
Rearranger
During a curl reformation service, what causes hair to soften and swell in order to reform it into a new curl or wave pattern?
Ammonium thioglycolate
What is the main ingredient in a curl booster?
1. Rectangle
2. Contour
3. One-two bricklayer
4. Spiral
5. Zonal
What are the 5 perm patterns?
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